Question
The Ring
Hello, I have designed a ring that I would like in Palladium except for the flower, which I would like in 14K Rose Gold.
A jeweler was concerned about the soldering part, told me that it might break, but 14K white gold and 14K Rose Gold will not be a problem.
Another jeweler told me that he can do Palladium + 14K Rose Gold with no problem at all.
Should I be concerned? Is Palladium really that difficult? I'm worried that the second jeweler merely wants my business. All I am concerned about is if the ring will last forever. Thank you.
AnswerFirst, is the jeweler familiar with working palladium? This is an old metal which went away for a while and now has revived in the jewelry industry. Generally the local jeweler will not cast palladium but will have that work done by those with proper equipment for such high temperature casting. Then again, the ring may only require a few basic parts plus the rose gold flower and can be assembled. I mention something on this at the end of this answer.(Thanks very much for the image!)
Years ago, I tried palladium findings(jewelry parts) and found often the join of the solders was not strong and the palladium did indeed come off eventually or if knocked. There was a reason for that: The solders used in those days contained a metal called cadmium. Any solders with cadmium will not work with palladium. If the jeweler uses plumb gold solders(full karat)and without cadmium, the joint is strong and secure. Still, palladium can be a real bear to work with in some cases. However, this is a fine jewelry metal and is a sister of platinum but less costly.
The jeweler may not be aware of using "non cadmium bearing solders" for attaching gold to palladium. This is the secret and to get the solder to flow slightly to the palladium first then to the attachment of gold. Well, each job is different as that goes but solders with no cadmium are a must.
It sounds like the second jeweler is more familiar with the working of palladium than the first. Take the jewelers word for it but you might ask out of curiosity that you heard that solders without cadmium must be used, even if you don't understand that. The reply might be interesting and revealing. If the second jeweler does not know about the cadmium thing, go somewhere else.
The design is very lovely. Likely this will need to be cast but could be hand fabricated with enough skill in hand to start. A good company for a jeweler to use is either TechForm Casting in Oregon or Platina. They should know of these superior casters of palladium and platinum metals or might want to contact one of the companies.
Karou, let me know if you need more info. Best wishes and I do like the look of rose with palladium.
God Bless and Peace. Thomas. February 13,2008 7:16pm
