QuestionI was given a Mikimoto pearl ring that is about 45 years old. Sadly, one side of the pearl must have come in contact with something that "ate away" at least one layer of the pearl. Is there any way to restore the lustre? The ring is sentimental as my great aunt had it made when she was in the foreign service in Japan. As an alternative, is it possible to redrill the ring and re-set the post so the tarnished side is hidden, or would that weaken the pearl to much? I appreciate your advice.
AnswerCheryl, you can be proud to have this old ring in your possession. I imagine it is lovely except for the wear on the pearl.
Mikimoto pioneered and developed the science of pearl farming. This is essentially the process by which we have almost all jewelry pearls on the market today. Harvesting of wild pearls (sometimes called oriental pearls)is rare and few fine pearls are found that way. In years past, wild pearls were the only source.
Farmed pearls are cultured pearls. Yes, these are grown in pearl oysters. The difference is the sizes and development of the pearl is controlled, unlike in the wild ocean areas and gulfs where all must happen in an unpredictable manner. A core or bead of mother-of-pearl is placed into an oyster along with some of the tissue of the oyster which produces the pearly shell and would make pearls in a wild oyster. The oyster produces a substance called nacre, the pearlescent radiant layer that simply looks pearly! The layer is build up in thickness according to how long the oyster is allowed to grow the pearl. The thicker and more attractive to the eye, the more valuable the pearl in general.
Cheryl, that one side of the pearl was likely worn away from wear over time. Pearls are organic material and are not hard like gemstones. With wear, the nacre layer may be worn away or even broken and chipped. When this happens, the inner core of mother of pearl is revealed and the wonderful pearly look is gone.
Depending on how the ring is made, the pearl may be remounted with another side facing up. Keep in mind, if the pearl is mounted as is common on a metal post, when removed the pearl will have a drill hole. Often, the less attractive side of the pearl is chosen to be drilled in the first place, certainly with the same layer of nacre but perhaps blemished in some way. Drilling the pearl again would not weaken it too much; the hole need not be deep.
The real questions are these: Is the other side of the pearl useful for display, perhaps on a 1/4 turn, without showing the original post hole in the pearl? If the pearl is not drilled but mounted some other way, when removed it may be reset with another side upward. A jeweler will need to see the ring to tell you what can be done and what may not be recommended. Without the ring in my hand I certainly cannot advise what to do with the pearl. I can advise what to do overall and that is to find a reputable jewelry business with a bench jeweler working in-house so the ring does not have to be sent off for work. An in-house jeweler can tell you right away what is recommended for your ring. If it comes down to it, the pearl may be replaced. I suspect you do not want to do this because the pearl is part of the meaning of the ring to you. Still, this replacement can be done in most cases if need be.
Cheryl, I do hope this information is of benefit to you. I explained about cultured pearls so you would know better what was missing from the pearl in the ring and why it has lost its pearly appearance.
Use a follow-up if you need to get back with me. God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
