QuestionQUESTION: I have what I think is antique art deco engagement ring. When I took it to get cleaned they thought it was odd that it had no makers mark. It does however have 18k and 750 stamped inside. What does the 750 mean and why would it not have a makers mark? Also the undercarriage of the ring has intricate detail with two "B's" incorporated in the design. I am wondering what those could mean? I will attach a photo of the two "b's" on the undercarriage.
ANSWER: Lauren, please keep in mind I am working long distance in answering your question. With the ring in hand I could examine it to see if in the past the finger size had been changed. Also, the photo did not load up. If you want to try the photo again please use a follow-up to this answer. Getting a good, clear photo of the upper inside of a ring is not easy but it you do have one please do see if it can be uploaded. (I suggest perhaps 500px wide as a max dimension.)
I have seen several older jewelry items with both a purely numerical stamp and a normal "kt or k" karat stamp. The numerical stamp is simply a representation of the amount of pure gold used in making the jewelry and means the same thing as the karat mark. For instance, pure gold is considered to be 24kt. 18kt is pure gold mixed with other metals to make a gold suitable for wear as jewelry and it contains 18 parts pure gold and 6 parts other metals like copper and silver. The amount of pure gold in the jewelry metal may be shown as a fraction like this: 18/24. Divide that out and the result is 0.750. In other words, 18kt gold is 0.750 or 75% pure gold in the mix. That is where the number 750 comes from. Having both marks is not the common method but is not rare.
750 = 18kt
Why is there no makers mark? I suspect the ring may originally have been stamped inside the shank (band) with the makers mark and if sized sometime during the previous life of the ring, the mark may have been sanded away or been in a location where the mark could not be avoided in the sizing work. That is something I have seen a lot of in older rings.
What you do have is the BB adornment in the undercarriage of the ring. A modern ring maker named "Natalie Kay" uses openwork metal on the upper inside of rings and cut into this metal are the initials NK. There is a makers mark on the ring shank but with the "monogram" in the undercarriage there is no mistaking the manufacturer, even should the shank stamp be missing.
Why all this? Lauren, I believe the BB to be the id of the manufacturer just as in the NK rings mentioned. It appears to me you do have a makers identification, even if not the stamp remaining in the shank.
If you need any clarification on this answer, please feel free to use the follow-up option to get back with me. If you want to try and upload the photo please also take that opportunity. And finally, if you want to rate the answer, please do that so I will know how I am doing out there on the other side. Fair enough?
God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
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2 B's
QUESTION: Thank you so much Thomas! Here is a photo of the two B's. I used arrows to point to the B's it is the best photo I could take. Maybe this will help.
AnswerLauren, I knew getting a clear photo would be difficult! However, I can see the "B's" inside the ring. The letters are part of the lattice just as in the rings I mentioned. This leads me to believe the maker is likely something to do with the BB or perhaps a single B (with the second in the ring for aesthetic balance.
I will suggest you also send your question to Bill and Sally Jarrett on the allexperts "Jewelry, Gems and Minerals" section. They specialize in antique and older items which are often out of my areas of knowledge.
Thanks for getting back with me. God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
