QuestionQUESTION: Hi, I have a client that has come to me with something that I really don't know what answer I should give her.
I was told she purchased this ring in Montreal. The ring has a 10K stamp inside but no trademarks. She did bring it to get sized down. The sizing was done, everything looked fine but after about 1 day of wearing the ring it started to change color. She brought it back, got it polished again, everything seemed fine, but then changed color again after about 1 day again. She brought it to a different jewellery store and was told that the jeweler that had sized the ring had destroyed the ring.... ?? The solder itself (the joint) doesn't change color, but the rest does. When we put acid to it it becomes brown and bubbles a little bit. Usually it bubbles and turns a little bit green but I don't really see the green on this one. Even if we leave the ring in the ultrasonic for a few minutes it starts to go brownish (we assume from the heat)..
Now she has come to me for the answer ... what should I tell her?!?
Thanks
ANSWER: Whew..I sure wish I could have the ring in my hands to test! Apparently the solder is a higher quality than the ring itself.
Can you possibly tell me what is in the ultrasonic machine? Is there ammonia in there? As for the acid test, did you do a scratch test by rubbing the edge of the ring firmly on the slate stone and then applying acid? You will need to do this and also have a mark from a piece of gold you know is 10k (or 14k if you don't have 10k). Apply acid to the marks and see the reactions, comparing the mark from the ring to the 10k and/or 14k rubbing. I would like to know what you see.
Please try to get back to me with a follow-up with any answers you might be able to provide. Fair enough? That should help on this end.
God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
Thomas is back----------------------------------------------------
Steph, I believe the ring must be something other than gold, regardless of the 10k stamp. This sounds to me very much like the ring is a base metal, perhaps a sort of brass. Likely it was lightly gold plated which kept it gold until sized and polished. Then the plate went away either from soldering heat or polishing or both. Sorry to give that news but the acid reaction, discoloration so quickly with the customer then again in the ultrasonic plus the lack of tarnish on the solder line all tells me this ring simply is not gold.
I believe it is the cleaning action an solution in the ultrasonic causing the discoloration, not the heat. I have cleaned worn plated items before and the brass parts have often come out a dullish coppery to brownish color.
What to tell the customer? You believed the karat stamp to be valid, did the sizing and now it is proven the ring was not gold in the first place. The ring would not have been sized in the first place if you knew it was plated(essentially costume jewelry). If you have a means to gold plate the ring, offer to do that with the understanding that the plate will wear away just as it would have in the ring originally. Otherwise, hope for an understanding customer.
You have not ruined a gold ring. You have accidentally sized a ring which could not be size in the first place for the very reasons encountered of discoloration. Talk with the customer to see what will make them happy within reason after explaining the ring situation as best you can.
During the jewelry work, the color may have been close enough not to bring any suspicion to the jeweler while sizing the ring. Brass metals polished with gold on parts can blend almost perfectly and look fine until time brings tarnish to the brasslike base metal.
I do wish I could provide another answer.
God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: To answer your first reply, in the ultrasonic we have Mr. Clean and water only. I too beleive it's brass and plated with gold. The problem is that she says she has been to another jeweller that told her it was gold.. now she thinks the jeweller that sized the ring is telling her lies.. ohhhhh this jewellery world sure is amazing! haha
My first guess was also brass base with 10k plating.
Now, another question for you, do you know of a place in Canada that does gold plating? The ring has some stones on it, wouldn't that be hard?
Thanks!
Steph
AnswerThomas is coming in the door----------------------------------------
I am back. I sure wish there was a way to do an acid test with the customer watching and she could see the metal smear on a test stone disappear while a gold spear remained. She may not understand it but gold simply does not behave like the metal in her ring.
I know of a place in the USA which does plating but on a large scale. In Canada, sorry, I don't know. There may be jewelers around your area who have gold plating solutions and will do it for a slightly reduced price. If another jeweler can do it, this might be the wise choice considering time and the attitude of the customer with the ring which was previously gold plated.
Sorry I can't help otherwise with a plating resource.
God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
