QuestionHi Thomas,
I have a quartz pendant which was especially charged with energy in Russia. It is a three part design, with a round ball on top, a larger quartz piece below, and a slender quartz point at the bottom (pointing down). The entire pendant is about the length of the first two digits of my index finger. The ball is held by a fork/prong-like bracket which connects to the bigger quartz piece by a thin layer of silver which covers the top of the piece and extends slightly down the sides. I was told that it would break when it has achieved its purpose in my life, which I guess it must have done. However I'd still like to wear it as a pendant. The ball broke off the top of the bigger quartz piece. You can see the top of the quartz piece where the fork/prong bracket broke away from it with the attached fragment of the layer of silver. I took it to a jeweler who said he could not repair it as the silver layer was too thin, and he guessed that it might have been a molded piece that was fitted to the top of the quartz piece and then dipped into silver. Before I try superglue do you have any other suggestions? Several of our friends also own one of these and since they are virtually guaranteed to break at one point or another I'd like to find out what we can do about it. Thank you very much in advance for your advice.
AnswerIrmgard,
This pendant is interesting in metaphysical properties and in design. From what you have described and from what the jeweler said, there are two possibilities I can gather about the construction. First, what the jeweler seems to be considering is a plastic material which was silver plated. To me, the top on the central quartz sounds like "electroformed" metal. Electroformed is often thin but is metal all the way through.
What is electroformed? An item to be electroformed or to have part of it electroformed is coated with a thin layer of paint-like material which conducts electricity. Then, the item is put into a plating bath. "Dipped" is a commonly used word but is inaccurate since plating baths are watery in consistency and are used at relatively low temperatures, just over 100 degrees f. The metal to be formed on the object is in the solution in the form of metal ions. This is a more concentrated method of basic electroplating. Electricity is turned on and enters the solution from a piece of appropriate metal placed in the solution. Another wire goes to the item, such as the quartz piece. With low current and a long time in the bath, metal moves from the solution to the conductive layer on the object and builds up there. Done well, the result is difficult to distinguish from other metal forming techniques. When finished and buffed, the new layer of silver(or other metal) is bonded to the item(the quartz).
Repair of such an item would be quite difficult. For soldering, the cap on the quartz would need to be removed since the heat will damage the stone. If fitted or formed to the quartz, removal in one piece will be almost impossible.
Whether all metal, perhaps electroformed, or plated plastic material, my suggestion for repair is not guaranteed to be permanent but is about the best choice I see. You will need to use an epoxy cement. Superglue will not hold that well over time and will fail when you least want it to! I recommend an epoxy made for gemstones and metal, such as Hughes 330. This epoxy cures water clear and not amber like most epoxy cements.
The problem with epoxy cements is the long cure time. The two parts are mixed according to directions then the cure begins. The 330 epoxy cures in about 2 hours. I recommend this over the 5 minute epoxy types since these leave little working time.
To do the job, clean both parts to be cemented with household alcohol to remove any traces of oils from handling, etc. Check the ends for a good close fit, as close to the original as possible. Set up a method of holding the parts in alignment before mixing any epoxy and give it a dry run to see if all will stay in place. Then, mix a small amount of the cement on something like a piece of plastic or old ziplock baggie. A toothpick works fine for a spatula to thoroughly mix the two parts. Put a little on one side and gently touch to the other side, set aside an let cure for about 15 minutes to help prevent runs and squeeze out. Do not use too much! If need be, you can add more later to the outside with the point of a toothpick.
Now, place the ends together as exactly as you can and let it stay, untouched for about 2 hours. Leave the toothpick or whatever was used to mix the cement in the unused blob. When the toothpick is securely hardened into the blob, you know the epoxy on the pendant is also cured. This prevents trying to check the pendant too soon and ruining the alignment of the pieces.
A good crafts store may have this Hughes 330 epoxy or a rock shop generally will. If not found, another brand may be used as well. I prefer the 330 because the glue line is clear and not discolored and the cement holds quite well.
This sort of repair is not the final answer to repair but is about the best you can manage without having a new top or connector piece made for the ball and the central piece.
Let me know if you have further questions on this. You may use the follow-up option for that.
Best wishes with the repair!
God Bless and Peace. Thomas. 01/06/2007 6:59 PM
