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Estimating the Age of Your Vintage Diamond Ring | 14K White Gold


Question
I recently bought a diamond engagement ring from a pawn shop. It is 14k white gold, and a round stone in a box setting, it also has "Happiness" on the inside of the band. The sales man seemed to be fairly honest. He let me know that it wasn't perfect, that it clearly had black spots and even let me see for myself. When you look in the center it looks like there is a hole in the bottom. I was told that that is a good way to tell that it is an old ring. He guessed from the late 30's or early 40's.
I love the ring, but am wondering about it's age.

Answer
G'day B.L.B. (sorry I don't have your real name?) and many thanks for your query

The word 'Happiness' is simply a Maker's Mark for the design range of your ring. Much like 'Bridal' or 'Forever' which is found on the inside of Wedding Bands.

The 14K is the quality of the gold - being 14 karat White gold in this case - while the black spots are 'carbon' inclusions. For Diamonds - the more visible they are the less value the gemstone. It is called 'Clarity'.

The design of the setting (ie: Box setting) would be correct for a ring on this period (before the Second World War) and the dark spot in the center of the diamond is called a 'window'.

This is caused in older diamonds because the gemstone is cut in what they call 'Old Mine Cut' or 'Antique Cut'. There are other names - but you get the idea.

The 'Window' is caused by the bottom pointy bit (called the culet) NOT going to a point like they do in Modern Diamonds, but being sliced off near the point which causes the window (dark spot) to show through the Table (top of the diamond).

Very common in older jewelry.

HOWEVER - This doesn't mean it IS an older piece of jewelry from the period as lots of rings are remodeled using the original diamond.

If you need to know for sure, you will have to get a gemologist/ valuer to provide a full appraisal for you (you should anyway for insurance). That way you'll know for sure (explain everything your mentioned here to your appraiser) and they will do the rest.

You might like to add this query to my blog at http://how2valuejewelry.com/ as other may have had a similar problem. Can't hurt anyway and who knows what answers you may get.

Hope this helps....