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Ring Resizing & Hallmark Removal: What You Need to Know


Question
Hi,

I recently got engaged, And my ring was purchased in spain. I live in Australia. I needed to get my ring resized, when I went to collect it they had removed the makers mark and the hallmark.Im pretty upset because the fact it was from spain was really important to us and now thats been removed! is this normal, it was not mentioned when I put the ring in??

Answer
Dear Eloise, I wish this removal of the markings had not happened and can understand the value of such.

A jeweler should use all possible and reasonable means to avoid damage or defacing of hallmarks and makers marks when sizing a ring.  

You know how the ring is constructed on the inside and if the ring was going up or down in size.   While stampings may generally be avoided or even cut between if no other area is available, there are a few situations where the stampings cannot be protected.

If a ring is made smaller, a section of metal equivalent to that size is cut away and the ends are brought together and brazed.  If a ring is made larger, a single cut will do and a piece of metal is added to make all correct fit for the finger.  In plain bands and some stone set rings, the ring shank (band) may be stretched if the ring only needs to go up a slight amount and cutting is not needed.

A ring is generally cut in the center of the bottom of the band.  If the stamps are there, the cut may be off to one side unless the band changes size dramatically in those areas by design of the ring or if the interior of the ring is hollowed out, allowing only a small section at the bottom for cutting.  In the later case, if the marks are there and it is the only place to cut the band, the jeweler can try to cut between the marks and use a preventive material to keep the brazing out of the stamps.  In some cases, the braze will flow over regardless.  Once brazed, the joint(s) are sanded smooth and polished.  Sanding may remove some of the stampings but should not erase all, certainly if the sanding is gentle and easily feathered into the area to each side of the brazed joint.

So, you see, quite often a hallmark and other marks may be avoided in the sizing process and a jeweler should do so if at all possible.  In some other situations, such as a very narrow sizing area, hollow sides inside or decorative sides outside, stamps in the sizing area cannot be completely avoided.  You know how the ring looks and from this answer can figure somewhat reasonably if the stampings could have been avoided.

Eloise, it is not normal to remove hallmarks and makers marks and if that must happen, the customer should be informed upfront, either when the ring is left with the jeweler or when the bench jeweler starts to do the work and realizes the situation.   

If the ring was made smaller and the entire stamped area was cut away, perhaps the jeweler still has this piece in the scrap drawer of the work bench.This is a long shot but possibly worth an inquiry.

I do hope this answer will be of some benefit to you.  God Bless and Peace.  Thomas.