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Authenticating Vintage Trifari Rhinestone Earrings: A Comprehensive Guide


Question
I am considering purchasing a pair of earrings from an online dealer, but have a question as to their authenticity.  They are ornate clear rhinestone signed Trifari dangle earrings, supposedly dating to the later 1950s or 1960s. The metal is described as silvertone, and the rhinestones are glued in, not prong-set.  They have narrow (not the frequently seen wide) clipbacks.  They are signed with the Trifari name on the clip, with the crown over the T, and the crown is not contained within
a rectangle. The "c" copyright mark is present, which I believe indicates a manufacture date after 1955.  I would like to know if Trifari made this type of earring with glued-in stones as opposed to prong-set stones during the 1950s and/or 1960s, or if this type of stone setting would indicate a later reproduction.  Also, should I expect the metal to be rhodium plated if from the 1950s or 1960s, or did Trifari make "silvertone" earrings during this era?  I am also unsure about the style of the clipbacks; they look contemporary because they are narrow and do not resemble the flat wide clipbacks I am used to seeing on earrings from that era.  Was this a style of clipback Trifari used then?  Also, should all the metal on the back of the earrings be smooth if true vintage? Does textured metal on the back indicate a "fake" later reproduction?  I can't tell for sure if the metal on the back of this pair is completely smooth or not; I will ask the dealer for a closer view photo of the back.  Thank you very much for any information you can give me on this subject.

Answer
Hello Anne and thank you for your inquiry. I am not an expert on Trifari jewelry, but I can give you some research ideas.  Following is a website with pictures of the various Trifari marks. Just copy and paste it into your browser address field and hit enter:

http://www.illusionjewels.com/costumejewelrymarkst.html

I believe Trifari did use some glue in stones in some of their designs. The better pieces were mostly prong set.

Two books I highly recommend when seeking information on types of jewelry produced by a manufacturer are Collecting Costume Jewelry 101 and 202 by Carroll.  Both of these books are probably available at your local library or you may be able to request them. They are available at bookstores such as amazon.com for $24.95 and are well worth the price if you intend to collect a specific designer.

I don't believe there are many "fake" Trifari earrings on the market - most of the reproductions and newer items are marked differently and "fakes" are usually the more unusual figural pieces. Most of all, make sure that the seller you are dealing with will take a return on the item. Nothing will replaces a "hands-on" inspection of an item.

Hope this helps and good luck !

Sally
jarrettsjade.com