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Fixing Nail Lift: Troubleshooting & Solutions for Long-Lasting Manicures


Question
HI,
I REALLY NEED HELP! FOR YEARS NOW I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR A PRODUCT THAT WONT LIFT. I'VE TRIED OPI, CREATIVE, LE CHAT, BRISA GELS, AND SPEND HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS TO BE DISAPPOINTED THAT THEY LIFT. THIS NAIL SALON THAT I GO TO DOES NAILS USING LE CHAT, BUT THEY STAY ON NO LIFTING. I MYSELF HAVE GONE TO COSMETOLOGY SCHOOL. SO I WENT BACK IN THE SCHOOL BOOK AND WENT STEP BY STEP TO SEE IF MABEY I'M DOING SOMETHING WRONG IN MY APPLICATION BUT I'M NOT.  MAYBE THE SALON IS USING ILLEGAL POWDERS I DONT KNOW. BUT I'M DESPERATE TO FIND A PRODUCT THAT WONT LIFT SO I DONT GET A FUNGUS. ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE HELPFUL.

THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH.

Answer
Hi Evonne,

There are three main causes of lifting: Bad mix ratio, bad prepping, or getting product on the cuticles. If you have the wrong product mix ratio it can cause lifting in multiple way. If you have to much liquid in the ratio, and can easily run into the cuticles. If you have to much powder in your ratio at may not properly adhere. I have never had problems with Creative lifting. So hear is some of my personal techniques for application:

Prepping:

1) Apply cuticle remover on one nail and gently scrape your pusher on the nail plate to remove any epinicium.
2) Work your way up to the cuticle area.
3) Clean nail of with polish remover. You don't want the remover to stay on too long.
4) Repeat with all nails.
5) Have your client was their hands with soap when your through.
a-Let Their nails fully dry, for when they are wet they expand and if you apply acrylic while they are still wet,  the nail will dry and retract causing lifting.

Forms, what I always had issues with! I like the Creative forms, they stick well and they are easier to work with.

1) Hold both sides of a the form and rock hands up and down to make the center curl up, that will really make them easier to get under their nails.

More prepping!

1) We always used an anifungal agent before applying nails. I used "Thymol-Septic by Beautiful Nails" It stinks so I would do it under the table, or I would do it by a vent, don't use a lot, one spray for each hand.
2) Apply dehydrator, do not touch cuticles.
3) Apply Primer, very little depending on what kind you use. I just did little dots here and there. Do not at any point touch your clients nails. Do not touch cuticles with primer. We keep clients by not causing an allergic reaction!

Your nails are ready for Acrylic application!
This is how I do it, to get my liquid to powder ratio right:
WHITE POWDER
1) Dip brush in liquid, lightly scrape brush along the brim of your liquid holder.
2) Dip brush in powder, two seconds.
3) Stop and check to see if the acrylic on the brush looks porous like an orange peel. If it doesn't, start over till its right.
4) If it is right apply it to the form and smile line area.
5) Pat acrylic with the flat side of your brush to move it off to the sides.
6) Use the tip and side of your brush to form the smile line. Some times I would have to poke at the smile line to get it to move, if it was drying quickly.

Pinks the most important, luckily pinks are a little easier to see the mix ratio, so here we go:
PINK POWDER
1) Dip brush in liquid, lightly scrape brush along the brim of your liquid holder.
2) Dip brush in powder, two seconds.
3) Say to yourself "going, going, gone."
a-If the powder soaks up the liquid before you are done saying it, either try dipping it back into the powder or start over.
b-If there is still powder on there just tap it off(tap on your brush lightly)or start over.
4) Apply the ball of acrylic on the nail bed right at the smile line.
a-Try to let the ball move by itself, that is the stress point you want it to be thicker there. If it doesn't move very fast pat it with your brush a couple times.
b-If it flattens out, you know you didn't get the right ratio.
5) Apply another ball of acrylic, don't let it touch the cuticles, if it does, it can cause a lot of lifting.
a-Often when you try to make a good arch, when you do the last application, it looks like a scoop nail.
b-If you need to, apply more acrylic for the third application.

By the way, one really good preventative for lifting and breaks is moisture. If there is product on the cuticle and the cuticle gets dry it causes a lot of lifting, so use cuticle oil daily. And always use gloves during household maintenance.

If you need anymore help, let me know!

Thanks!

Jeannie