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Gel Nail Lifting & Popping: Causes & Solutions for Hawaii Clients


Question
I have a client that has 1 1/2 inch gel nails(most of this is natural nail or sculpted free edge). She started getting them done in Germany. When she came to me (after moving to Hawaii) for fills they were super thick. Maybe around 1/8-1/4 inch, I assumed because of how long they were. Since I started filling them, they have been popping off the nail bed. I don't have a problem with any other client lifting to this degree. She spends a lot of time in the water. Could the mix of water and super long length be the cause of the separation from the nail or am I missing something? I've never worked on nails this long. Can you suggest either a different product or a new technique to keep her nails from popping. I am currently using the creative brisa system.

Thank you so much!

Answer
Dear Valerie

For NNO's (Natural Nail Overlays) where there is no extension and simply product over top of the natural nail, overexposure to water can sometimes be an issue.
When the natural nail is exposed to water, it expands due to absorption of the water.  When the nail dries out, it contracts.  Repetition of the expansion and contraction can weaken the adhesion if this person is truly in water A LOT.

Other causes of separation (if occuring at the free-edge) is if the nail isn't sufficiently capped OR if the client is filing the length of the nails between appointments, thus removing the capping.

If you are certain she isn't filing away the cap, and you know you have adequately capped her; it could be that you need to use nail forms to create a 'tighter' cap.  Use a form and extend the free edge only slightly, this will help.

Other causes are:  insufficient prep, exposure to household cleaning products (client needs to wear gloves for household chores), a client with 'heavy hands' who knocks them frequently, some health issues such as hormones/thyroids/heart and meds for depression, ingredients found in creams/sunscreens such as mineral oil, lanolin and petroleum (aka petrolatum aka vaseline), nails too long for a client's activity level can most certainly lift.

How certain are you that her former enhancements were REAL UV Gel?  Was powder used?  Try to ascertain if they were OR if they were MMA acrylic which is the devil to get off.  If they were MMA, it could also be that she was used to the hardness of that, and is having trouble adjusting to the flexibility of brisa.
Perhaps trying Creative L&P acrylic might be a better alternative for her?

I hope this helps
best regards
Victoria