QuestionThank you so much Victoria. I'm wondering about the medications. How do those effect the gel adhesion? I am on medications from my recent pregnancy and am wondering if those may also add to the cause of the lifting.
Also, what is the correct way to cap the natural nail? I don't think I have been shown the correct way.
Thanks again!!
-------------------------------------------
The text above is a follow-up to ...
-----Question-----
Hi! I am a licensed manicurist and primarily do my own nails at home with the Brisa UV system. I really like gel nails and love how natural they look. Unfortunately, they seem to lift a lot at the tips and along the sides. I am careful not to let the gel touch my cuticals.
I start by using a hand drill to remove the old gel and to clean up any loose pieces. I then use IBD spray, BondAid, BondEx and then the Brisa Primer. I then apply a thin layer of gel and cure for 2 minutes and then finish perfecting it with another coat. Usually, I use the White Gel Paint to draw "smile" lines and finish off with the UV protector gel. It was suggested that I use the combination of BondAid and BondEx. Could you recommend something? Thank you very much!
-----Answer-----
Hi Ada,
I confess that I'm not familiar with the Brisa system, nor IBD products. Having said that, I'm sure you are aware that you shouldn't mix products from two different systems. So, I would not use the ibd spray with the Brisa.
Frequent causes of lifting with uv gel are:
Insufficient cure (Brisa requires it's own specific lamp- any other lamp will cause problems, be sure the bulb is not too old)
Insufficient prep (removal of tissue from nail plate, and debris and dust)
Failure to properly 'cap' the free edge.
In the case of NNO's (Natural Nail OVerlays), it's a common problem to have lift at the free edge for some people due to their own nails. If prep is perfect, and capping is done right, and all other problems are ruled out, then it's a problem linked to the "client's" nails. In this case, yours.
Other causes of lifting are:
Thyroid issues
Daily meds (such as hormone pills or anti-depressants)
Over-oily skin/hair & nail plates
Over exposure to water (cause the free edge to expand and contract far too frequently, weakening the adhesion of gel to the nail)
etc.
One solution is to file nails shorter than preferred, and to use a sculpting form to extend the free edge to the length desired. This manner of capping is much more secure than running the brush along the free edge. Even if only extended a little bit, it's still better.
Hope this helps
Victoria
AnswerHi Ada,
Medications change the chemical balance of your natural nails, just as it does your hair and skin.
Enhancement products are created to stick to a certain type of surface. When that surface is 'different', problems arise. An example would be like using wood glue to stick plastic together. Or caulking to glue wood together. You need the right products to go together.
Also, some people do better with L&P Acrylics, then they do with UV Gel; and vice versa.
This is an awesome site with tutorials on nail enhancement application: http://groups.msn.com/BeautyPro/shoebox.msnw
To 'cap' the free edge, you sweep the brush with gel across the free edge at the end. Make sure you don't file this off when you do the finish shaping. If you must, cap with each layer, and that way, you can ensure you don't file it all off during the finish filing.
Two sites with LOTS of help are beautytech.com and thesalongeek.com (or uk, can't remember)
both are forums for nail techs of all level of skill, and full of tutorials and all kinds of help.
Best regards.
Victoria