QuestionHey Heather. I am a nail tech who has been working for 8 weeks now and I am having major issues with my artificial nails.I do not have the access or the money for a class right now so I am hoping you can help. I mainly do pedicures but I have done artificials on around 6 people. I am getting really frustrated because almost all of them have been having issues with their nails. For the most part, they are lifting in the back and chipping up to the middle of the nail. That tells me that my tips are secure and the issue does not lie there. I have really been paying close attention to my prep and making sure the nails are clean, cuticles are pushed back, filed with a buffing block and dehydrated and primer is applied. I have switched products three times so I know its not the product because I am still having these issues. I am currently using Tammy Taylor. Anyway, I thing there is something up with my application but I don't know what. I don't feel like it is too wet or too dry. I try to stay off the cuticle sometimes I goof. I have even noticed lifting on a couple of my clients right after the product is applied. How do I keep these from breaking. Please help I want to fix everyones nails before they lose confidence in me.
Thank you
Kiley Butler
AnswerAww take a deep breath!!
I know this is frustrating, but its something you will get through, I promise! You just have to be dedicated and diligent!
I think the problems you are experiencing are a combo of your product and prep. Now I know you said you are prepping the nail, but the prep I learned in Beauty school did NOT teach me real, meticulous prep.
Prep involves not just pushing back cuticle, but removing ALL dead tissue from the nail plate with a solvent. Lifting occurs when there is something in the way of the enhancement and the nail plate linking together. And if the lifting is at the cuticle, then its your prep, possibly combined with your product.
I like to use a curette, you can get a Mehaz version at your local beauty supply wholesaler, and a CND product called "Cuticle Remover." I apply a dot on each cuticle, then using my curette, I work it around the cuticle area and the nail plate, pushing back any "speed bumps" I encounter on the nail, never pushing hard into the cuticle wall. Then using soap and water ( I like citrisoak to get all the solvent off), scrub with a nail brush, and remove the shine from the nail plate with a 240 grit or HIGHER. If you are using good quality product, it isn't necessary to "rough up" or "etch" the nail plate. You just need to remove the shine, which is where most of the oils from the nailbed sit. I don't use primer, I apply a product called "Scrubfresh," which leaves behind pathogen fighters as well as dehydrating the nail plate, then apply my product.
I believe TT products need to be used rather wet, and an acid based primer is also involved. This has only ever worried me because uncured product must NEVER touch the skin, EVER, as you can cause your clients and yourself to develop sensitivity or an allergy.
Go to this website, and register: www.thenailgeek.com
I love it there, and there are tutorials for nail techs, that are useful if you are new or more seasoned, and loads of help from the members themselves! I am there under my plain old boring name: heatherdavis
If you need anymore help, please don't hesitate to ask. Depending on where you are, I might be able to help get you set up with a one on one with an educator to try and figure out where your weaker points might be to help get past them. :)
Good luck!!!
~Heather
