Troubleshooting Acrylic Nail Application: Tips for Long-Lasting Manicures

Question
Hey Maggie! So I am a licensed cosmetologist and during hair school I also learned to do nails. I have a client who has the smallest fingernails I have ever seen! The problem is that when I do acrylic, I can't get the nails to stay on more than a few days... I've been told I could be using too much primer, but even after trying that, they still won't stay on. They just pop right off and I'm getting quite frustrated now. What do you think? Any suggestions? Anything would help!! Thanks so much!

Bre

Answer
I know what you mean. It can be tricky to get acrylic to stick to small nailbeds. Especially if the client insists on wearing her nails long. The best you can do is try to convince your client that she needs to keep the free edge no longer than her nailbeds are so they stay balanced. Also, if you are using tips, try sculpting. Sculpting with forms will put more acrylic in contact with the nail plate-- acrylic sticks to the nail better than glue does, so that will help. A really handy trick I learned from a fellow tech is to use one coat of tradiional acid primer and then 2 coats of a protein based primer such as Young Nails' "Protein Bond." This combination has really improved adhesion on my problem lifters and clients who wear their nails longer than their nail beds! Hope this helps! If not, you might try gel on her. Gel is a lighter weight polymer and tends to be more flexible, it might work better for this client.