QuestionI have a 14K White Gold ring with baguette diamonds along the side of the main tanzanite stone. Local jeweler said sizing down 1 1/2 sizes is not possible as it would ruin the integrity of the setting of the baguettes. Is resizing possible, if so how could I get this done?
AnswerHello Maria,
The jeweler for some unknown reason did not tell you the truth. Resizing is done , quite easily from the bottom most part of the ring's band and would have no effect on the side of the ring. My guess is that the jeweler does not have a bench jeweler on staff and sends out whatever work needs doing that is high ticket work. Most chain jewelers for instance do nothing but resell pre-made and pre set pieces,some are called semi-mounts, That is a ring for instance that is pre-set with (usually low quality,SI 1-I2 gems meaning slightly included to included and the "1" and 2, refer to the amount of inclusions one can see when viewing the stones with the naked eye and / or a loupe or magnifying tool) diamonds, or occasionally other "accent" or coloured stones. I always recommend to questioners in this forum and on my websites that one seek an independent jeweler in their area and avoid chain stores like Zales, Freidmans, Jared, and on-line sources as well. You want an honest person that has a passion for jewelry and knows the methodology and techniques and has the experience to fabricate anything one can dream of in his or her studio, from start ( meaning alloying the gold) to finishing it to the clients requests.
resizing a ring is like jewelry 101! it involves simply sawing through the band and inserting a piece of metal that is a colour match and the necessary length, fluxing the piece, and then applying heat from a torch or laser ( laser work is becoming more available in small studios and larger storefronts as the equipment is becoming more scaled to the industry and pricing is affordable) the torch being more common.Then refinishing the ring in your case and giving it a final polish to a high gloss or matte finish, if not refinishing it from one to another finish or adding embellishments or other stones to it before finishing.
I would not use that jeweler for anything as it sounds as if the store you inquired in is simply a reseller. They probably do no wax work for casting, and no custom design work: if they pull out a pre-printed catalogue of jewelry settings they are using Stuller , Hoover and Strong or any number of the major suppliers to generate their business. Ever noticed how jewelry looks the same from store to store? That is due to the "biggie" suppliers catering to that type of jeweler. Independent gold and silversmiths will work with you to design a piece and make their own waxes if it is not a mainstream style ( journey pendants , mother's rings. infinity bands, etc. are examples of these types of pieces) that one can simply order a pre-made wax then cast it to order in your choice of metal and karat, and set it with whatever stones you wish. though occasionally their work is based on an hourly rate more often it is per job from design to delivery and carries a lifetime warranty on the workmanship .Most also provide free cleaning and an annual stone check to check settings prongs, or burnishing or other setting methods to insure that nothing is loose or about to falter.
I would check your local phone book for goldsmiths or jewelers that you may not have noticed give them a ring and ask if they are studio jewelers and explain that you need a simple resizing and ask if they charge by the hour or the job and what is their turn around time on a resizing. If your band is simple it should take less than an hour to resize it, clean it and check the stones for security in the ring ( unless you are certain that they are secure and don't wobble in the setting). If you require an adjustable band for arthritic hands it may take a few extra days to order the insertable hinged finding. Not knowing where you are I can't point you towards a jeweler in your area that I may know or is a colleague in one of the jewelers societies to which I belong. If you can't find one on your own, feel free to contact me and either I can resize it for you or find a jewler that can in your area.If the ring is platinum that requires an artisan with the capacity to work with high temperatures - most silversmiths do not work in platinum as a rule, however most goldsmiths do have the appropriate torches to work Pt group metals.Palladium is a rather newly prominent platinum group metal that is fast replacing white gold as one is paying for a good deal of nickel in buying 14 karat white gold and the palladium alternative has a higher perceived value being a Pt group metal, is brighter than platinum ( which is greyish as opposed to brilliant white) yet costs less than white gold or platinum. Another thing to have in your mind when negotiating for a resizing or any jewelry jobis the daily spot price of the metal of which you want to buy or repair your jewelry .You can find that at www.kitco.com : the site gives you the daily quote on gold silver platinum and palladium, and with that information you can say to the jewelr that you realize you need maybe a gram of "sizing, or shaped wire" to resize your ring, so how much would [they] charge you for the metal alone? If it seems reasonable , given your research before you contact the jeweler, then they may be a goodd match. If you call ask if they have a website so you can view their work before committing to a long drive, or an appointment.
i hope this helps.
Best regards, Ari
