QuestionHi,I am wanting to buy myself an art deco diamond ring and obviously would need to get it made much larger to my x1/2 size,generally speaking are there any style of rings that CANNOT be made bigger?-I looked at a lovely 1/2 eternity (modern not deco) ring with 5 diamonds and was told that it was not possible to make it bigger,I was so upset I didnt ask why!! thanks for your help.
AnswerJeanette, the sizing system I use is different from the UK version but the question can be answered regardless. Most rings in a show case for sell are "standard sizes", meaning a more common size which is supposed to fit more fingers without sizing being needed. In fact, most rings need to be sized, one direction or another. A standard size in the USA for women is about a 7, the approximate same as a size N 1/2 or 0 in the system you use.
To make a "standard size" ring lager to be a X 1/2 means about 9.3mm of metal must be added to the bottom of the ring band. Imagine the ring being cut with a straight cut across the band at the bottom. Then the ring is pushed up a steel rod which is tapered and has marks for ring sizes in the steel. As the rod (ring mandrel) is tapered, the ring will be pushed up the taper until the mark for an X 1/2 is reached. This will spread the ring apart with a space of about 9.3 or so mm to be spliced with new metal brazed into place and finished neatly so as the keep the work from showing to the eye.
Putting the new piece of metal in place is not the problem. The problem is the construction and stones of the ring to be made larger or smaller. Imagine a plain metal wedding band, no stones: The wedding band will push right up the sizing rod with no problems. There should be little problem making a plain band larger.
Now imagine a ring with a top full of stones in some fancy arrangement. When you look inside the ring you see the parts beneath the fancy top are recessed and hollowed out. The sides of the band may be hollowed out on the shoulders of the ring. Now, if this ring is pushed up the sizing rod, the top simply is not going to bend to the new circle form of a larger size. Sure, it might do just fine for a single size or a size and a half or so. More and the hollow shoulders may crinkle and the top cannot take the new shape or all will be distorted and damaged.
That is one example of a ring which cannot be sized several sizes but can generally be sized perhaps one or two sizes only.
Another ring may have many stones set very close together in a channel or with tiny prongs holding the stones in place. When the ring goes up the ring stick, if the stone settings do not distort and the stones do not start to touch and damage each other, sizing will likely work. Going down might be a problem, however, since making the ring circle smaller will spread the stones apart and spread apart each setting in which the stone is secured. If the little prongs are spread away from the stones then stones become loose and may fall out. Such a ring can sometimes be made smaller but the craftsman will need to tighten the stones. In some cases too much damage will be done and the ring can only be size a small amount, either up or down.
Jeanette, all has to do with the particular design structure of each ring. That also includes how and where stones are set. A jeweler can better show you examples than I can explain in words here.
What to do? If you see a ring you really like, ask if sizing to fit your finger will affect the integrity of the ring and stone settings. You should receive a clear answer.
Best wishes, Jeanette. God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
