QuestionQUESTION: I have been given what looks to me like a victorian engagement ring. The diamond is round, with a setting which looks like a crown. The setting is silver while the ring itself is rose gold. What is interesting about this ring is that instead of a hallmark the inside of the ring has been marked with the following text:- 9ct & silver. The silver around the setting is quite tarnished and I cannot remove the black marks even with silver cleaner. What are your thoughts?
ANSWER: Hello, Dee. Thanks for asking my thoughts. I am a jewelry designer and hands-on metal worker, not an expert in old jewelry but I do have a touch of knowledge in that direction.
As you may well know, the Victorian period was one of the longest historical periods associated with jewelry during the last 200 hundred years. The period ran from about mid 1830's to just past 1900.
During that time, many gemstones were used but discovery of diamonds in South Africa opened the doors to more diamond use in the middle of the Victorian period. Sure, diamonds were in jewelry for some centuries previous but new supplies improved the market and a new cut had been introduced. A diamond used in Victorian jewelry would most likely be of the Old European style of diamond cutting. Previous diamonds were the Old Mine cuts with squarish or cushion shapes when viewed from above. Old European cuts started the use of faceted diamonds with a round shape when viewed from above. From the side, both cutting styles were rather deep compared to modern cuts. We see both the Old Mine and Old European cuts in jewelry of the Victorian period and in later jewelry, simply because when jewelry is worn out the stone is often reset into a new setting. The link below has some sketches you might compare to the stone in your ring.
OLDER DIAMOND CUTS, OLD EUROPEAN CUT (copy and paste)
http://www.khulsey.com/jewelry/old_european_diamond_cuts.html
The combination of gold and silver is not surprising. Silver was used much more in better jewelry in past years than nowadays. Did you know the tiara Princess Diana wore at her wedding is made of silver? I saw this piece and was surprised. Yes, it is lovely with an occasional polishing needed. We see both brooches and rings from the 1800's with silver tops and gold beneath.
From the use of 9 karat gold and the abbreviation of karat as ct, I suspect the ring originated somewhere with British influence. In the UK a ct is used instead of a kt and 9ct is fairly commonly used. However, the ring apparently does not have the standard set of hallmarks generally seen in UK jewelry.
I suppose you thoughts as to my thoughts have to do with the tarnish on the silver crown of the ring? If so, the best action would likely be to take the ring to a jeweler for a professional cleaning. This also is a good idea for security sake, having the ring inspected for wear to be certain the gemstone is secure and metal is not worn critically thin. A jeweler can clean the ring and buff it gently with soft brushes and soft buffs to remove the tarnish. Tarnish deep in recessed areas will be more difficult to remove and polishing in recesses is tough to do. Chemicals can remove tarnish but you might then have a white tinted and not shiny area where recessed tarnish had been. In that case, the tarnish might look better as a natural patina than being removed. Tarnish on outside surfaces is easily buffed away by a competent jeweler. I have done this very work and with a gentle touch and the right buffing compounds the results are quite good.
Dee, you got some thoughts, for certain. If you need more, feel free to use the follow-up option to get back with me.
God Bless and Peace. Thomas. May 18, 2008 3:09pm
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QUESTION: HI Thomas
You may be interested to know my location. I am in Glasgow, Scotland. I know you do not answer questions on hallmarks. However, given that this ring does not have a hallmark, this is a question on the lack of one and maybe therefore one you can answer. I thought all european jewellery had to have a hallmark. Would the mark on my ring have been common in Victorian times? I must confess that when I saw the text on the inside of the ring stating:- "9ct & silver" I was certain it was a much more modern ring. What do you think?
Darina
Many thanks for your response.
AnswerDee, as I said, I am certainly not an expert on hallmarks. Just to let you know, the hallmark system in the UK has been going since around the 1500 century. Certainly, the system has developed and been refined since introduction but I would suspect enforcement of hallmark would be even more tenacious now than in earlier years.
The reason I said "British influence" in the first reply was because of the lack of hallmark. I had the thought the item may have been produced elsewhere or otherwise not submitted for hallmark but is of the characteristic 9ct. gold alloy. The mix of silver and gold fits the time period since white gold was not really an item until later. Technology was not up to that for some reason.
I saw a ring today which was obviously older than yours, containing "rose cut" diamonds of odd shapes, merely faceted on the tops and still fitting the shape of the diamond piece. The bottom was yellow gold and the top silver.
With the hallmarks not in your ring, the scenario I mentioned above might fit then again there is another: The ring may have been worked on and in finishing work or sizing the hallmarks were removed. The jeweler may have simply put back in what was thought necessary, even if not conforming to the hallmark rules.
As for Europe, each country has its own standards and rules for identification of maker and quality of a jewelry item. The French will mark only 18k or greater, as I understand it. Ireland has a set of hallmarks similar to the British but different. The Scottish have a castle mark the others lack. Checking out marks legal in Finland will differ from those in Spain, for instance. Some are are almost as inclusive as the UK system but many are not. Yet, each country does to the best of my knowledge have "some" legal requirements for marking jewelry items.
At this point, your ring is a mystery to me. However, if the stone is an old mine cut or old European cut, the dating is likely correct.
I have run out of knowledge in this area...yikes! We hope to visit the UK this year, first visit. We plan to touch into Scotland for a few days.
If you need more, I am not certain I can provide more but will be happy to try.
God Bless and Peace. Thomas. May 19, 2008 10:35PM
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