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Decoding Jewelry Marks: Understanding 14/20 & Identifying Tahitian Pearls


Question
Hello,
I just purchased a strand of tahitian pearls from China (Yikes!). The clasp is supposed to be 14k. It doesn't appear to be 14k, but what do I know? The mark on the clasp (which is silver/white gold in color) is 14/20, beside what looks to be an equilateral triangle shape. What could the mark possibly mean?
While we're on the subject, how do I know if the pearls are even Tahitian? Is there something in particular I should look for? Now that I'm suspicious of the metal content, I'm beginning to wonder...
Thanks for your time,
Mae

Answer
Mae, Thanks for this question.

The mark 14/20 is not a normal mark associated with 14k gold. 14k would be marked with the 14k or with numerals 585.  The  numbers tell the amount of pure gold in the jewelry gold recipe, actually 583 is 14k on the spot but European makers started with 585 some years ago for a mix which is a tiny bit over 14k and that is the normal standard you will see on jewelry. ( 14k/24k = 583)

With that confusion out of the way, the only other mark I can think of would be for gold filled but parts are missing. GF is marked with a percent which is karat gold and with the karat.  This is a layer of karat gold bonded to a non-precious metal much like a quarter coin has a silvery face and back with a coppery layer between when viewed from the edge.  A common form of GF might be 1/20 14k GF.   This means the layer is 14k gold and is 1/20 the weight of the total metal used.
A jeweler would need to test the clasp to be certain.

If the pearls are pearls, the most basic test is to rub on on the front teeth gently. The pearl will feel gritty going across a tooth. Try a fake pearl and you will see the difference. Also, look at the string holes and see it those look drilled into the pearl.  There should not be a surface of the pearl slightly raised at the hole since that would indicate a molded bead and not a real pearl.

The sizes of Tahitian pearls is large compared to other pearls, running from at least 1/4 inch to perhaps 1/2 inch.  These pearls actually come larger at a larger price. : )  The question is are these truly the color shown or are these dyed?  A home test is tough to do for dye. Keep in mind, if all the pearls match perfectly in color, that is not a good sign except possibly for a truly fine strand of genuine ones.  Colors range from a steely gray to a dark black with a greenish reflection. The pearls should be shiny. Dyed pearls do not generally have the slightly colored greenish reflection.

From my old seat in front of the computer, this is the most I can offer without actually seeing the pearls.  Even so, the answer might be difficult.

Best Wishes, God Bless and Peace.   Thomas.