QuestionQUESTION: I have been a licensed nail tech for several years and all of my manicure clients have dehydrated nails. I have changed products over the years using OPI & Creative manicure systems. I have used Adios & Tammy Taylor polish remover. I use a glass nail file & file from corner to center. I have tried Nail Envy & many other similar products. I do not buff unless there is a pronounced ridge. My clients refuse to do any nail care at home. What advice can you give me? I have lost several clients & I simply don't know what to do next.
ANSWER: It certainly is frustrating to have clients refuse to do home maintenance. I, personally, have no patience for the "That's what I pay YOU for" mentality and have cultivated a clientele that knows that if they don't care about their nails, then I won't either. I use dental and automotive analogies to make them understand this: their dentist would never be ok with them saying they didn't have to brush and floss between dental visits, their mechanic (and car warranty) would never be ok with them not getting oil changes, and their hairstylist would never be ok with them not shampooing and conditioning-- why should I be ok with them not using a quality cuticle oil between manicures?
That little rant aside: Are you doing "dry" manicures? If you are still soaking the nails and fingertips in a water-based solution to soften cuticles before manicuring, you may want to switch to a waterless technique. Try generously applying a thick, hydrating lotion or cream and wrapping the hands in warmed towels or heated mitts, or beginning the service with a paraffin treatment.
Water is extremely drying to the skin and just changing this little part of the manicure can make a huge difference in conditioning your clients' skin and nails.
You may also consider "soaking" the nails in olive oil or almond oil before performing the manicure. Botanical oils are exceptional at rehydrating skin and nails because they are more effectively absorbed into the skin and nails. As opposed to many lotions that contain mineral oil, which is comprised of lipids too large to be absorbed. They'll sit on top of the skin and make it feels greasy, instead of being absorbed into the skin where it can do some good. Also, avoid lotions and creams that have a lot of fragrance in them. They smell nice, but most fragrances mean a high alcohol content-- also drying to the skin.
You'll need to be very careful with your nail plate cleansing routine before polishing when doing deep hydrating services like this, but as long as you thoroughly clean the nail plate before polishing, this isn't a big issue.
Have you tried Nail Tek products? They offer several formulas designed to address specific nail types. Also, you may look into products by Jessica Cosmetics (http://www.jessicacosmetics.com/) which are developed specifically for natural nails.
You really need to convince your clients to apply cuticle oil on a regularly basis to maintain the health of their nails. Unless they are coming in for manicures every other day-- their nails need daily attention, just like their hair, skin, and teeth!
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QUESTION: I have been doing dry manicures for enough time that I should have noticed a difference. I have tried numerous products including Nail Tek. It seems that they do some good for a few months but become dehydrated again. How long do you recommend soaking the nails in olive oil? What brand of manicure system do you use? I am wondering if I should use something besides polish remover to clean the nail before polishing. Could that possibly be my problem? I appreciate any help! Thanks
ANSWER: I don't use a system per se. I use Tammy Taylor lotion with hot mitts instead of soaking. In the winter when my clients' skin gets really dry and it actually feels creepy to touch them, I use oil. The winters here aren't harsh enough that people really take it seriously, but the cold weather and hotter showers take enough of a toll on their skin that I notice!
I use pure acetone for polish remover. It's extremely effective and very fast, and several industry chemists say it's the safest and "greenest" chemical available for removing polish.
I use Scrub Fresh from CND to cleanse the nail plate before polish.
I don't soak in olive oil so much as I use olive oil in place of lotion for the massage. And I make sure my clients understand the importance of applying a little oil to their cuticles on a daily basis to maintain the health of their nails-- I often recommend CND's Solar Oil for this.
How often are your clients getting manicures? How many clients are you seeing this problem with? Is it really all of your natural nail clients, or just some of them? And what specific symptoms are you seeing?
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QUESTION: My manicure clients come every 2 weeks & every single one has this problem. I am also seeing it on my pedicure clients using only Tammy Taylor products. Beginning in the middle of the nail plate continuing to the edge of the nail is visibly dry with lighter flecks on top of the nail. The lighter flecks are the dry areas that are somewhat raised(similar to wood grain after it gets wet). It does not look like nail fungus. The nails are peeling at the free edge. At one point, layers of the nail were flaking off in the center toward the free edge but that is not happening now. The nails just look very dry and void of the natural oil they need. I am thinking that if my manicure and pedicure clients are experiencing the same symptoms with me using different products, maybe I need to try Scrub Fresh first. I am very clean and sanitize everything thoroughly with Tammy Taylor products so I don't feel cleanliness is the issue.Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks!
AnswerThis is exactly the same thing that happens to my own toenails when I keep them polished. I solve the problem by just leaving my tootsies naked for a couple of weeks, but that's hardly an option for your clients!
A few years ago, a colleague in Pennsylvania shared her discovery that if she massaged just a very tiny amount of Solar Oil into her clients' nails right before polishing, the polish actually lasted much longer!
Of course, this went against everything we're taught and she got a lot of questions, but I have found that sure enough, if you just massage in a tiny tiny amount of oil before putting down your basecoat, the polish lasts a little longer-- and it'll help with dehydration.
I think you'll have to buff that flaky layer off with a really fine buffer. Then scrub thoroughly with Scrub Fresh and then rub in just a little bit of oil. If the basecoat bubbles or pools up, it's too much oil.
Don't use Tammy Taylor cuticle oil for this, her oils contain mineral oil and mineral oil is comprised of lipids that are too large to be absorbed into the skin and nails. Use something that is all botanical. Solar Oil is good, as is Jojoba or sweet almond oil.
Good luck!
