Mastering Hair Cutting Techniques: Tapers, Fades & Sharp Edges

Question
QUESTION: Hello, my name is Derrick Burke and I was wondering if you could assists me.  I am currently trying to learn to cut hair better, and there are a few things that I need help on.  To begin, I have a set of Andis Outliner clippers, but I still cant do edge-ups as sharp as professional barbers.  What am I doing wrong? Also I was wondering are there special clippers or guards that do tapers?  Lastly I was wondering if you could give me tips on making edge-ups as straight as possible.
ANSWER: Hello Derrick, my name is Cleao and I can help you. I have to break all this down so this might take a while and maybe a few follow up questions. Well first let me answer your first question. For your edge ups the best thing is to set the blade that means making the inner blade even with the outer blade but not over the outer blade because you can cut someone. There is another "trick" or "secret" to making edge ups sharp that is pushing peoples hairline a little back the where it is supposed to be. I do not recommend that way, but some Barbers do that to get that crisp edge up. For your second question there are no real "special" clippers for tapers but I do recommend clippers with detachable blades such as the Oster 76 classics, because they cut faster, cleaner and it is easier to use in steps doing tapers or fades they cost a lot more but it is worth it if you are trying to be a serious barber. What I mean by steps is for example if a person wants a 1 1/2 with a taper you would cut with your 1 1/2 blade on then when you get to the taper it goes 1A then 1 then 0A or 000. I like to say I specialize in tapers I normally start right above the ear and work my way down depending on there head and how low they want the taper some people like it to the skin other maybe to a one but once you get confident enough in your cutting skills you can look at a person and decide how short low the taper should be. For your last questions the best way to make a edge up straight is to start at the temple especially with kids start at one side of the temple then go to the other side and do that side once both sides a complete go straight across the forehead sometimes you may have to step back to make sure it is straight that way you will also see which side if any is lacking straightness but the best way is using a mirror the mirror NEVER lies so if the edge up is crooked the mirror will show you also use your mirror during fades and tapers it will show you lines that needs to be taken out! and agan once your confidence is up in your cutting skills you won't need the mirror as much. I had a few questions for you what kind of clippers do you have now? Where do you Barber and how long have you been doing it? I hope all of this helps you if not just send me another question and I will be glad to help

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QUESTION: I have a pair of Andis T-outliner clippers, and a relatively inexpensive pair of Whalz clippers I use to cut the hair down.  I am interested in buying a more expensive pair of clippers to trim hair down though.  I currently just cut to make a hustle.  I attend college at the University of North Carolina, and I cut in my dorm room.  I dont charge the guys much of nothing because I understand I'm not a professional. I've been cutting hair for about 2 years now.  And sometimes I get guys who want a taper, but I dont know how to do it, the only thing I have experience doing are regular cuts...I do want to ask:  What are the best pair of clippers to buy?..and is there a big difference between guards and detachable blades?...and whats the best way of blending hair of people with different textures of hair?  For example someone who may have thinner hair near the temple

Thanks for your help

Derrick Burke

Answer
hello again and no problem! The best clippers would be the Oster 76 classic clipper they have detachable blades and cost about 100-$199 depending on where you go like I said yesterday the detachable blades cut faster and cleaner they also let you go in steps the best way to blend peoples hair is in steps if you cut them with a 2 blades then you will start blending with a 1 1/2 then a 1A then a 1 so on and so on you. you just go down from what you cut the hair with. If they want a 1 1/2 on top then you go 1A 1 and keep going down  until it's blended right. there is really no different in cutting thick or thin hair. except the size of guard or blade you use. I hope this helps if not feel free to keep asking!