QuestionHi Thomas, I found your response about the cuff bracelet and have been asked to fix a sterling watch band with a turquoise cabachon on either side of the watch. Is there any way NOT to remove the stones? This is from the seventies and well worn. If I do have to remove the stones, do you have pointers or a recommended article or book? I know just enough to be dangerous. I am a silversmith but only work in my comfort zone. I love reticulating and creating organic pieces. This is a favor for a friend. Also, I am looking for a good book for identifying stones. I have bought several (The Crystal Bible and many obscure books) but none have a broad enough picture base for me. Any recommendations? Thanks so much and I look forward to your reply, Jane Krohn
AnswerHi, Jane. This is a good question but first here is some very basic info on books to help you identify and become more familiar with gemstones.
The two books in links below have what appear to be adequate pictures. I agree that pictures are the first key to learning gemstones. There are other books out there and some are much too elementary saying too little while others are photomicrographs of internal flaws, etc with little to offer the regular jeweler who is not a gemologist. The first one listed below looks ok to me. The second one may be found at a good book sellers so you can take a look before purchase.
Gemstones of the World (take a look inside)
http://www.contenti.com/products/books/gemstones.html
Guide to Gems (at Amazon.com)
http://www.amazon.com/Guide-Firefly-Pocket-Cally-Oldershaw/dp/1552978141
Otherwise, if you can find a copy of The Jewelry Artist, formerly The Lapidary Journal, the many ads in the magazine will provide more leads on book suppliers. You may also check the website of the magazine at www.lapidaryjournal.com Note: these websites are copy and paste.
WATCH BRACELET WITH TURQUOISE CABOCHONS
Jane, if you are going to fix a break in the silver and solder to do the repair there is no sensible way to do the work without removing the stones. With gold and supposing some distance between the stones and the break, a wet napkin or that stuff called heat shield could be placed over and around the stones then a very hot torch and low temperature gold solder could possibly solder the break before the stones were hot enough to be damaged. With silver, the heat conductance is so high you simply do not have that luxury. I can take a sterling ring with a stone and place the stone under water in a jar lid then solder the ring on the ring shank on the opposite side(out of the water) but a large hot flame is needed and the water is boiling when the solder flows. A bracelet is much more difficult and requires much more heat. Isolating the heat from the stones is almost impossible. A jewelry laser could likely do the work and leave the stones in place but who has one of those sitting around. ; )
How are the stones set? Generally turquoise cabs are set in bezels or wrap of metal around the stone. The sort of bezel determines the difficulty in removing the stone. If this is the general bezel type, hand made and not cast, the bezel is a rather thin rim of silver. Likely the stone is not so deep as the bezel but is resting on a bed of sawdust or something similar and the top edges of the bezel are simply bent in on the stone to hold it in place. Take a small tool like a cuticle pusher but a little sharper and working away from the stone try to push the bezel rim out. Go gently and work your way around the stone. Check the stone once in a while to see if it will come out when gently nudged. If there is sawdust or other stuff below the stone, keep that to reset the stone.
Do the repair with the stone out. Polish and finish the watch bracelet. Repack the stone setting or simply place the stone back in place, depending on what was under the stone to start with. Take a shortened chopstick or similar safe tool and gently push the silver back over the edge of the stone. Finally, take a polished steel rod or burnisher and run it around the bezel top(avoiding the stone) to make it more secure and better finished. That should do it.
If the bezel is more complicated than described, be prepared to either cut the bezel and remake the bezel when the bracelet repair is done. Or, be prepared to explain the your friend why the job is not to be attempted.
Jane, please get back with a follow-up as you may need to explain more what you are working with. I have no special book to recommend on this sort of repair. Sight unseen it is difficult to provide the best advice on method of approach to the repair. Fair enough?
Best success wished and God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
