QuestionQUESTION: Hi! I am new to jewelry and loving making necklaces and earrings as a hobby. I cannot resist the opportunity to move into ring making; but I am having difficulty determining the correct shank for a specific setting. I love bezel and 1/2 bezel settings but don't quite know what to consider when choosing a shank. Can you help?
ANSWER: Diane, I will help as much as I can but need more information. Can you use the follow-up to get back and let me know a bit more? What metals are you using? Are you wanting to make the ring shanks or purchase those and mount the stones?
There is not really a specific size shank for a certain stone size. All has to do with how it is all put together. Can you send me some ideas and perhaps I can get you going in a correct direction.
God Bless and Peace. Thomas. I will be here.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thank you so much for offering to help me! I use 14K yellow and white gold. My question stems more from choosing a shank that will 'fit?' the setting; I see that some shanks have a flat end and some are curved. Some shanks are listed for bezel setting while others are not identified. Is there some way of choosing a knife or pointed end shank for a certain setting--not so much for size of stone but the 'joining' of the shank and the setting?
Diane.
AnswerThomas is back in the building-----------------------------------
Diane, there are specific shanks shaped to more easily accept certain setting styles. I have found in any case something must always be modified a bit to make it all stay level and lined up.
There are "pinch" shanks, the ones with open ends at the tops and the ends come to a tapered end. These are used in tiffany type settings, with the pinch part going between two prongs. Some filing is generally needed to get a good fit. Flat ended shanks more easily fit settings with flat sides. Others must be modified to fit each style.
Much of the fitting of a setting to a shank is making things fit. I choose a shank with the look I want and a proper setting for the look and stone to be used. I try to figure out before ordering any findings just how these parts will fit together. If the fitting is difficult, there is a chance another shank will provide a similar look and fit the setting easily, saving time and maybe making for a cleaner job overall.
I have tried to find simple findings on the net and that is difficult. Most cater to the hobbyist and while I can find any sort of bead or simple silver part for a bracelet or necklace, the stock in trade settings and shanks of the professional jewelers are not there. Well, those parts are there but you have to have an account with the company to see products. I will not use company accounts for answers.
What I will do is this, providing you give me some time: I will take photos of various sorts of settings and shanks and from that give you more info. This will likely take a couple of days. In the meantime, if you have something to add to this question please let me know.
Oh, do you have a pair of tweezers made for holding a setting in a shank for soldering? These are handy sometimes.
I will do what I can between jobs and see what will work for you.
See you later. God Bless. Thomas.
I am back-------------------------------------------------------
Diane, there is a picture to go with this answer. If it is not attached, go to this link:
http://www.renderosity.com/mod/rrfilelock/download.php?fileid=37803&key=6764
I will leave the link open three or four days. Sometimes when there are follow-ups, the attach image option disappears for some reason.
I have provided some basic setting styles, basic in the way the sides or base of the settings are formed. Each requires a different means of installation to the ring shank.
The pinched shank is pretty standard. See the image? The pinch part simply goes inbetween the prongs on the setting. You might have to file a little to get all to fit just right. The end might need to be at a different angle or the pinch may be too sharp or not tapered enough and will need to be filed to fit.
The flat sided setting simply needs to be held in place in between the flat ends of a shank.
The peg based head is used on any ring with a bar between the shoulders of the shank. The shank is all one piece with a bar to drill and put in the peg. Drill the hole for a tight fit and also use a round bur to slightly recess the area so more of the setting will contact the shank for more secure soldering.
The small image shows a shank with a bar between the sides and a flat bottomed setting. This sort of shank will take the setting shown, a peg bottom (best choice) or even another style if the shank is cut and filed to fit the setting.
Much of what will work is up to you. You will not find everything out there with exact fits for each style of setting and shank.
If you need more, please give me a couple of days and write a NEW question and mark it PRIVATE. There is a reason for that. : )
God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
