Platinum & Tanzanite Setting: Advice for a Difficult Jewelry Project

Question
My sister purchased an emerald cut tanzanite on a Caribbean cruise. She later bought a platinum chain and a platinum pendant basket for the stone. The basket looks a bit shallow to me. This project was left to me when she died. I cannot locate anyone to do this work. It seems that jewelers can only get insurance that covers their own manufactured products. I know that setting a soft stone in platinum is a bit risky. Should I abandon this project? Is there anything I can do?

Answer
George, the problem is not only the insurance.  You have to also consider what a jeweler might face with a customer if for some unknown reason the stone should be damaged.  We can always say, "It is totally at your risk" but even if that will protect us from financial damage we have to hand a customer a damaged item.  That is not a good scene, even if the customer agreed to it!
Everyone looses.

Likely if you want the stone set, you will need to accept the risk of damage and not hold the jeweler liable.  This means speaking to the bench jeweler(the one who does the actual work) and trying to determine how comfortable the jeweler is with the job. Is the jeweler familiar with setting tanzanite and setting stones in platinum?

As for setting tanzanite in platinum, actually this should be much easier and more forgiving for the bench jeweler than would be white gold. Platinum generally will bend with safety and with no spring back, leaving a secure setting with less pressure and chances of a slip than with white gold. Note: The basket setting should be examined by the jeweler. You need to know the platinum item is manufactured well enough to work with out problems anticipated.

If the setting is too shallow, I am not surprised.  Many colored gems are cut more deeply than the typical basket setting will accommodate. Even in a pendant, the softness of tanzanite precludes allowing the bottom of the stone to protrude.  You need the stone as protected as possible.

I would check around with other jewelers if you can find some good ones in your area.

I sure cannot say abandon the project. Then again, I have not seen the stone and the setting. It is possible another setting might be more appropriate. That would not have to be platinum.  

George, I hope my thoughts help somewhat.  God Bless and Peace.   Thomas.