QuestionQUESTION: Hello Thomas, I inherited a new 1.16 carat round diamond platinum (95% platinum) engagement ring where the diamond sits in a U shaped setting with four prongs, with the setting and ring being all one piece. When looking at the ring from a side view, one can see the point of the diamond in the U shaped setting, and can see that the point of the diamond does not line up with the center of the U setting. Also the diamond is slightly loose in the setting. A jeweler recently told us that the diamond point looks off center because the notches in the prongs do not line up and the prongs have been shaped so that some are thicker than others (making it so that when looking at the ring from one side view, the point does not look too off center). They said it would not be possible to re-work the prongs and suggested that we have the ring custom made. Is it possible to add more material to the prongs and re-work them or is the only option to custom make the ring again? The ring is very detailed, with channel diamonds around the majority of the band and scallops & diamonds on the side faces of the ring. Thank you for your assistance!
- Anna
ANSWER: Hi, Anna. Thanks for this question.
To have the ring made again only to correct this off center diamond situation would be extremely expensive in todays market. Would it be worth discarding the original ring to correct this stone setting misstep? When is the off-center culet(point on the bottom of the diamond) really noticed? If the ring is on the hand in normal everyday wear would anyone notice?
I might see the ring and agree something must be done. However, without seeing the actual condition and visual effect of this ring I can only do two things with this answer:
1. Ask if this is a minor situation you can live with
2. Suggest methods other than a remake of the ring to correct the off center diamond
Working platinum is quite different than working with gold. This is certainly true in soldering or welding the metal compared to gold. You see, while a suitable solder for gold can be found and used to replace the prongs even if near decorative side diamonds, the same is not true of platinum. Why? Platinum requires very high heat and even using the newest platinum solders will quite likely and in some cases certainly cause damage to the side stones near the work area. Maybe this is why the jeweler said the work could not be done and a new ring was needed. If accent stones are near the U or on the U part of the setting, platinum solders cannot be used to add more metal to the prongs.
I will make a few suggestions and a jeweler comfortable with platinum work will need to tell you if these suggestions may be applied to your ring.
These first suggestions require a white gold solder such as 18 karat white solder be used to do the work. The diamonds should be safe in this case since the solder is chosen to allow a lower working temperature. 1. If the problem is in the cutting of the stone seat(the notches holding the waist of the stone), if may work to remove the main stone, fill the notches with the white gold solder, recut the stone seat so the stone is straight and reset the stone. For a more lasting color match the ring may be rhodium plated in the area of the prongs and the 18k white solder. 2. Remove the prongs and replace with new platinum prongs soldered in place with white gold solder.
The second set of suggestions is the same as above with one very large difference: No solders are used but a jewelry laser is used to either fill the notches or replace the prongs using a very fine welding with platinum. Finding a jeweler experienced with a jewelry laser is the first challenge. You see, the machines may cost from $20,000 to over $30,000. Only a few jewelry businesses will be able to put that equipment into their work shop. However, some stores may have access to an experienced laser jeweler who does work for several stores. This is well worth considering.
The link below is for a seller of metal wire used in laser welding. I put this here so you can take a look at the short video of a laser in action. Link to the video at the upper part of the page.
http://www.speedjeweler.com/
A laser is used to melt and weld new metal onto existing metal. The new metal is supplied as a wire and each pulse of the laser will weld a very tiny area, a bit smaller than the period of this sentence at a normal view. Multiple welds are made to build up the metal as a solid piece of the selected metal. In your case, platinum wire would be used.
Anna, I do hope this answer will be helpful. If you need to clarify something about the ring or ask me to clarify part of this answer, feel free to use the follow-up. You may also rate this answer as you see fit.
God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thank you very much for the speedy response and suggestions, Thomas. With the diamond slightly loose in the setting (it can be moved slightly by hand and with tweezers), I would rather get this fixed now.
Regarding the laser welding method, are there certain risks I should be aware of? For example, will the prongs have a risk of breaking off or will the weld be visible on a U setting? And typically, what is the cost of repairing prongs using laser welding?
Thank you again - your advice has been very helpful!
- Anna
AnswerAnna, if the work is done properly and the operator makes certain to have a solid weld all along the joining surfaces the prongs will be strong as new. If the operator is not experienced, it is possible that incomplete joining is done; it may look fine to the eye but not be strong. The same sort of thing can happen with soldering if the jeweler is not experienced in the work. If the laser operator is experienced, no problem.
I would hope the prongs may be left as are and be built up with the laser, providing metal in the notches to reset the stone properly and enough on the prongs to make all the prongs balanced in thickness when finished. If the work is done well, there should not be a visible repair.
I use a laser to some extent but am waiting for formal in-class training. In the meantime I have learned how to do ugly work (practice pieces!) and how to go further in preparation and welding to have a solid new surface. That solid surface becomes an integral part of the original and finishing off any rough edges leaves a clean appearance.
Thanks for the follow-up. I realize questions do come up later and must be considered.
Have a fine week coming up. God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
