QuestionHello Thomas:
I recently took my white gold ring to be sized down (to wear on a different finger) and to have a the (I believe it's called rhodium) finish re-done. I have had this coating re-done in the past with no problem. I was very happy with the result, and my ring looked like the day I got it.
This last time when I took it to get the finish re-done, I received a phone call from the large jewellery chain that I took it to (Ben Moss), telling me that the band was cracked and that the jeweler would not do this work for me and that he indicated they may need to cast me a whole new ring and re-set the diamond into that.
When I went to the store to look at it, it is definitely true, that there is some visible cracking in the band (although it looks fairly minor to the untrained eye), and you can feel the crack if you run your fingernail over it - but I am wondering if it is necessary to have a whole new ring made. Can this type of seemingly minor damage not be repaired? Also, do you know what might cause such cracking? To be honest, I hardly ever wear the ring... for the most part it sits in a velvety ring holder in my jewelery box so I guess that may have added to my surprise in the damages.
I almost felt like they were just trying to get money from me - in a similar way people think Mechanics do unnecessary work, I felt like they might be trying to sheist me and I wanted to know an unbiased take on the whole situation.
If you could let me know what you think, that'd be great. I'd be happy to answer any further questions you might have if you need any additional information. Thanks!
Kristie
AnswerDear Kristie,
The cracks are not related to rhodium plating and it appears the jeweler was giving you vital information and covering their position. Should they have done the rhodium work then later a customer discovered the cracks, they might at that time have a difficult time convincing a customer what they did caused the cracking. You should have been told of the cracks and you were.
Generally there are two major reasons for cracking as you describe in white gold. The first is a form of heat shock where a ring quite hot from having torch work is not cooled properly. The gold may also become brittle if allowed to air cool completely. Quenching too hot or allowing to air cool is not a proper way to handle typical white gold. There is little reason to believe this is a cause of cracking in your ring.
The more likely cause of those cracks is exposure to corrosive chemicals such as chlorine in beach, disinfectants or swimming pools. Chlorine works on alloys of white gold which contain nickel. This reaction is called stress corrosion cracking. Chlorine removes some of the alloy metals in the white gold, primarily nickel, leaving the metal damaged internally. Stress applied to the metal will cause the cracks to appear or cracks will appear where the metal already has internal stress. There is not a cure once the cracking is there but much future cracking may be prevented by gently annealing the metal, that is, heating to remove stresses and return the metal to a normal unstressed state. Present cracks may often have a hard white gold solder flowed over the crack and excess solder is gently sanded away and the ring polished. Done well, the cracks are hidden and at this point will likely not develop further.
Keep in mind, there is always a rare chance of the ring cracking when heated to anneal the metal. One area soften first and "movement" within the metal will put a bending stress on another section of the ring and the crack will become worse. I have had this happen but very, very rarely. Generally, a uniform heating to anneal then attempts to fill the cracks with solder material(actually more like brazing) will do a decent job. With a final rhodium plate all should look quite good.
I have repaired rings like this years ago with complete success over the long term. Even with repair there is always the outside chance of other cracks happening and when seen it is a good time to replace the ring. The stone setting should be carefully checked since there is generally stress from the stone setting process and that is calling for cracks to occur. That area should be annealed also, ok if the stone is a diamond and is clean enough to heat safely. Other gems should be removed for the annealing process.
Kristie, this may seem complicated. I suggest you ask the jeweler what they think is a cause of the cracks. Not having seen your ring, I might be wrong but it appears from description to be what I have covered. Also, the repair goes best with plumb white gold solders (solders which are the actual karat of the gold in the ring) and with a paste soldering flux to encourage better flow into the cracks than standard liquid flux will allow. The jeweler should understand what I am saying here. : )
Please use a follow-up if needed to clarify this answer or to ask more on the subject. If you get a chance, please rate the answer so I will know how I am doing. This is a more technical answer than most but is needed for the question at hand. Do feel free to get back with me if you need to do that.
God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
