QuestionQUESTION: I used to have acrylic nails for 5 years, but they totally ruined my nails
underneath. I found your website and read about MMA and everything that is
not a good nail salon. Well, where I was getting my nails done, did everything
they were not supposed to do. Go figure! So here I sit, with weak, bitten
down, abused nails, that I know I can grow out with proper tips and gel
applied. My question is this. What is the proper way for someone to apply a
tip to my bitten down nail? Don't they need to prep the nailbed by "roughing"
it up a bit? Do they need to use a drill? Then should I have gel nails applied? I
am confused as to the difference between gel and LCN nails. I thought LCN
nails are gel, but then I read that gel is acrylic? Please explain. Thank you.
ANSWER: Dear Marybeth,
As you learned from my site, it's not quality acrylic, nor uv gels that damage nails. It's bad technicians and cheap illegal MMA Acrylic that do so.
Seek out a quality technician, asking for diplomas, etc. It doesn't matter if it's Acrylic or UV Gel, they are equal EXCEPT when it comes to MMA (then you have to worry). With regards to MMA, ask the technician to provide an MSDS (Materials Safety Data Sheet) See if MMA is listed.
NO, natural nails do NOT need to 'etched' (roughed up) prior to application of any system. If a proper prep is performed, this is unecessary.
Proper prep consists of:
- Using a cuticle remover solution such as or similar to "cuticle eliminator" and scraping/removing the cuticle (this is the dry skin that sticks to the top of the nail plate that is unseen until scraped away). Then GENTLY pushing back the eponychium (the ridge of skin at the root/beginning of the nail that most mistake for a 'cuticle').
- dusting and dehydrating the nails using an appropriate dehydrator.
- Using the necessary bonder/primer for the system being used.
Some VERY GOOD technicians who were taught the old methods and haven't updated their skills may still use a hand file to GENTLY give a few swipes across the nail with a low grit file to gently etch it. This is UNECESSARY, but those who are well trained will not use force and you won't see visible damage. Only the surface sine of the nail need be removed. Beyond that, is damaging.
An electric file aka drill/dremel should NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER touch the natural nail under any circumstance. NEVER!! If a technician says otherwise, RUN! The only time it's tolerable is if a chamois bit is on it, to buff to a high shine (just like shammie material used on a car). Otherwise, it should ONLY touch the gel or the acrylic. NEVER THE NATURAL NAIL.
You do NOT need to take my word for it. Visit beautytech.com or salongeek.com, and other qualified technicians will confirm this.
LCN is a brand of UV Gel. There are many different brands of UV Gel on the market, and LCN is one of the popular ones. HOWEVER many nss claim to be using LCN and are not. Take care. If the salon is using unlabelled containers that do not look like this: http://www.beautyconcepts.co.uk/trade/products/index.asp?DirCategoryID=18&DirIte
IF they are claiming to be using LCN and the containers do not look like these, then they are SCAMMING YOU!
If they use powder and claim it is UV Gel, then they are SCAMMING YOU!
There are many different methods used to apply enhancements to badly bitten nails. I personally prefer to sculpt. Though many technicians do put on tips. Either method works IF DONE PROPERLY.
I hope these answers help.
Best regards
Victoria
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Victoria,
First off, I want to thank you for caring so much for doing this. Really, finding
your site was the best thing that happened to me! Thank you for explaining
all of this gel/UV nail information to me. And explaining the application of
tips. I just hope all the MMA I was exposed too didn't hurt me.
I found a salon and the nail tech was happy to answer all of my questions.
She never took out a drill and never hurt me. She applied everything the way
you said she would. If it weren't for you, I wouldn't have taken the time to ask
questions first. I thank you for that. The nail tech knew all about the MMA and
explained every step to me. She ended up using Brisa gel and applied clear
tips. She did a french and it looks beautiful. Especially considering my nails
were horrible looking, bitten down, MMA acrylic abused nails. I had taken off
the acrylic myself about a month and a half ago. I was too scared to go back
to the salon I was going too. They always would just tear them off and it hurt
alot!!!
She kept them very short, sport length for now, until my natural nails grow
out. They are just above my finger, which is great.
I wanted to let you know that I called about 7 salons yesterday before finding
one that would talk to me and answer my questions. The first 6 were very put
off by all of my questions. Almost like I didn't have the right to ask.
Amazing...
My question now is, what can I expect for a fill in and is Brisa an good gel to
use? I have an appointment in 2 weeks and even though, so far, everything
has been fine. I want to make sure I totally know what to expect for my fill in.
Please forgive me for all of my questions, but as you can tell, I pretty much
have learned the hard way that it pays to ask questions about nail techniques
being used on your nails.
Again, thank you so much for caring. I will keep in touch and let you know
how things are going. I am also going to tell all of my girlfriends about your
site and all I have learned. If you are ever in NJ, let me know....I would love to
meet you!
Thanks again,
Marybeth
AnswerDear Marybeth;
I AM SO HAPPY THAT YOU FOUND A GREAT TECH!
Brisa is a brand of UV Gel by the 'Creative Nail Design' company. They are one of "the" TOP BRANDS in the industry, and their training is very intense. If she is truly Brisa/Creative trained, then you should be in very capable and qualified hands (pardon the pun LOL)
I'm glad to have been of help! And I'm glad that you were able to put my information to use to find yourself a caring technician!
You have EVERY RIGHT TO ASK QUESTIONS, when it comes to services you are paying for, products you are buying, etc etc. NEVER be afraid to ask questions, or be put off by someone who becomes annoyed at your questions. If someone is annoyed at your questions, then you might want to rethink findind someone else to fulfill your needs, whatever they may be.
Yes, some technicians who are 'out for the money' dont like to be questioned. I enjoy questions, personally. It tells me that I have a conscientious client who cares. I am passionate about nails, and enjoy clients who are the same.
Usually, with infills/rebalances/refills, what happens is this:
- the tech will do a prep much as before, by pushing/scraping cuticles, etc
- filing away any lifted product
- removing any unwanted 'length'
- dusting and dehydrating the nails
- apply gel to the grown out area, and elsewhere as required to adjust the shape of the nails
- cure
- finish file to smooth it all out
- dust/dehydrate again
- apply a gloss
Now, if it's a gel french, it would be a little different than described above, with a couple of extra steps to apply the 'french' with a white gel to the free edge of the nail, then filling over with the clear.
Otherwise, your colour or french will be applied aferwards with polish or airbrushing.
I thank you for taking the time to let me know your good fortune. I'm relieved that it's all sorted out and that you do not think ill of all of us technicians, which so often happens.
Regrettably, I don't travel much. But, should ever the opportunity arise, I would welcome a spot of coffee in New Jersey. (btw, I have family in NY lol)
Please do take care, and enjoy your new found technician
Best regards
Victoria
