Understanding Dip Powder Systems: Hoja and Traditional Techniques

Question
Hi there, Ive been a manicurist in NJ for many years and am puzzled about products that the Asian Salons offer.  In my area there are many places that do a powder and glue dip that is extremely strong, thin and natural looking.  Is this the old fashioned "French Dip" that we did years ago.  I tried doing the Pink and White with acrylic powder and glue.  I had to do many coats which was time consuming. And when I did the white part I had to draw the smile line with gel glue.   They looked ok but the white smile line wasnt as sharp as I always get with acrylic.  Plus they did start lifting after a few weeks.  It seamed that thye dried out and started cracking.  Also, have you ever heard of Hoja?  I have been searching for it for years because its also a product that is very thin on the nails and holds forever.  It is such a strong product that it cannot be soaked off.  I had a client come in to soak off after going to the Asians for this product.  She soaked for about 45 minutes and they didnt budge.  They must have a special solvent to remove this stuff. Can you give me some info about it.  I wouldnt use it in my salon since it cant be removed but I am just curious about it, thanks in advance, Magggie

Answer
Dear Maggie,

Many "NSS" (Non Standard Salons) use what is called "MMA" Acrylic.  It's toxic, illegal and damaging to nails.  It's near impossible to soak off and must be filed off.  It's 1/3 the cost of legal & quality acrylic. Harder does NOT mean better.  See this page on my site to learn more of MMA: http://ongles-chez-victoria.tripod.com/victoriasnails/id18.html

With regards to "dip" systems, there are many brands, so it's impossible for me to know what the techs in your area are using.  
Yes, dips do tend to lift more frequently, and will not age well. In most cases, after only 1 refill, they will be soaked off to start over again.
Ordinarily, DIP's are done with resin adhesive and NOT glue. And most certainly not a gel glue, too thick.  And it's nearly impossible to get a crisp french smile with them, without using french tips.  I did dips for 15yrs.....  without french tips, a 'dipped french' just looks shoddy in my opinion.

I can't give you any specific information about the salons in your area.  I can only advise that you visit them yourself and ask questions.
However, "BAckscratchers" is a well known and reputable dip system if you would like to investigate that one.

In addition, try beautytech.com.  It's a forum/site full of technicians that can share all kinds of information with you, mainly american.  There is also my preference "salongeek.com" which is mainly UK, but it's frequented by nail techs world wide, including such members and authors as Doug Schoon, Marian Newman and Gigi Rouse.

Hope that this helps,
best regards
Victoria