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Working with Sheet Silver for Stone Rings: A Guide


Question

Silver Raw Stone Ring
I have a ring (see attached image) that I would like to duplicate, meaning I want to make rings and pendants just like it with other raw stones I have. I was going to buy sheet silver , form it to the bottom of the stone by folding it up along the sides and snipping it to the desired height, then I planned to just turn it over (so the silver side is facing upward) and blast all the silver with a torch so it kinda melts to the form of the stone. Is this even possible - am I totally wrong about my approach? It seems like it would work but I admittedly have no idea what I'm doing. If you have any suggestions on how to recreate this ring I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks so much!

Answer
Hello Lane,
Yes gonzo torch melting is the incorrect approach no matter how attractive it may seem!
What you need is bezel strip and  sheet silver; bezel strip for the band setting and  sheet or ring blanks for the band and the appropriate grade of  solder, and if it is yellow gold you are going for as the setting, then 10kt yellow gold bezel strip could be used with a 10kt ring blank and repair solder or even  yellow silver solder in hard temper.
I highly recommend your   going to the library or bookstore and checking out Tim McCreight's "the Complete Metalsmith". Also  there are a number of basic soldering  videos on you tube, and  metalwebnews.com that leads one to a number of links on  basic forming.One thig I can tell you is the maker  glued or applied resin to bond the clusters into the  bezels.You can  buy pre-made die struck oval bezels but their weight is  too light, and a higher gauge of sheet   would  be more appropriate particularly if you  don't want to use  glue, epoxy or resin- which I do not recommend..also your  base must be  flat so a good  dremel tool, flexshaft, or lap is required to  flatten the bottom of the  clusters.
It is far too long a process to explain in the time I have at the moment so If you give me a while and   also email me  back as a follow up question, he equipment you have I can  give you a more detailed  explanation  of how to go about fabricating the  rings, etc. without blasting the metal..and  you'll need to coat anything  you want to make with a  fire coat of  boric acid and  methyl alcohol mixed to   a cream-like consistency and a pickling solution of  pool Ph down ( sodium bisulphite) or sparex ( a junk product widely available  but far too expensive for the  amount of filler included in it!).Do you have a saw, a bench, a torch  ( a butane torch will do  wonderfully for a few rings,  no need to go out and  buy a whole  jewelers set up- a bernzomatic   would be ideal- american scientific and surplus (sciplus.com) has them  on sale right now for about $16  USD)..
Anyway I'll be looking for your reply and  don't blast anything quite yet, you'll blow up the amethyst certainly and probably melt down the whole project..It shouldn't be a trial and error proposition as  even silver hit $13.89 yesterday and  gold an unreasonable 922.00 on  most markets...
Best regards, Ari