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Repurposing Diamonds: Cost of Creating a New Ring


Question
Would it incur a lot of cost to take the diamonds from an engagement and eternity ring and make one new engagement ring?
Thanks

Answer
Hello Susan,
Well given the market price of gold, and the  choice of jeweler that does the job, that is a relative question: If you remove the stones  yourself ( a pair of  nail clippers will do  the  job nicely without  damaging anything around the prongs or beads  holding the stones, and  prongs are easily bent back and the stones removed in a matter of minutes ) and have a clear idea of the  design and  a drawing or  have chosen a mounting already, then it's a matter of just  setting the stones. Also  removing the stones  oneself allows you  to keep the scrap, which if sent out  you will  probably not get back in dealing with a chain in particular as they  have little control over the  sub-contractor's policies.In fact many, if not most jewelry salespeople have relatively little knowledge of how  jewelry is actually made start to finish, unless they have been through some  specific training- which most  store owners offer only after a long period of employ.The salespeople work on  commission, and to have  your stones set into  a mounting you have already  purchased would mean  little profit, and commission and a tendency to not take on the job, or greatly inflate the  costs associated with a relatively simple task- if the mounting is pre-made from Stuller, Hoover and Strong, or any of the major manufacturing and  supplying jewelry concerns that  largely supply the chain stores ( that's why it all looks the same from store to store- many of them have no bench jewelers on staff and  send all their work out .
 An independent jeweler  rather than ANY chain store is the way to go  for  that job. Any  independent goldsmith or metalsmith in your  area can buy  most standard mountings and  have the job done in a day ( a matter of hours actually!) and labour runs between $35.00 and 70.00  US for  bench work. If you were to go through a chain store you would pay at least three times that price for  the  costs, then the materials would also be marked up.
Mnay online auction sites and  jewelry sellers ( I hate to use  names as it is NOT an indication of my recommendation  of any of them but Blue Nile (overpriced beyond worth to an excess!), JewelryTV.com, and e-bay) sell mountings. If you look there you may find exactly what you desire, then  just finding a stone setter is all you would need to do. If you supply the mounting and the stones you should  only expect a warranty for their setting from the jeweler that does the job.
 Palladium, a white  metal in the platinum group that is  more white than platinum or white gold ( which contains nickel and as such may cause reactions to  some skin types and  due to the  small amount of gold in white gold I always try and steer my clients away from  its purchase particularly at today's spot market which you can  check on www.kitco.com to get an idea of the  costs of  any raw materials  you are considering.) should be  considered  over a white gold or platinum, unless money is not an object.Platinum with a rhodium plate is  a recommended metal as it would increase the durability. Palladium can also be rhodium plated but it is less a necessity as Palladium is stronger and more  scratch resistant than Pt in its raw state. If you  want gold, I would recommend investing in 18kt. over 14kt as the value is  worth the difference in price, if buying the mounting yourself.
If I knew where you lived I could recommend a jeweler that  could do this for you.you may look in the yellow pages and  contact any non-chain stores and inquire as to the time of delivery on a stone setting job- if they are backlogged more than 2 weeks they  probably do not want the job! Cold calls in the jewelry business often  do not yield the results  you want.If you  see any studio times listed in the advertising, then  that is the  person you want to seek out. Jewelers that are passionate about making jewelry  will do a better job than any sub-contractor a chain uses for  mass jobbing. If you  were to buy a semi-mount and  had a good pair of  flat nose pliers and a dremel tool you could do it yourself !
I do want to  caution you about  metal clay use.It is not appropriate for the kind of piece it sounds like you want to have made from your  other pieces. The metal will never be as strong as the natural raw material ( silver or gold) and the skill level of most metal clay jewelry makers is often overstated compared to the results.Since you are  desiring  diamonds be set, that adds to the possibility of an inclusion in the stone exploding when  kiln firing the material- all-in-all, avoid a metal clay artisan  for this job!
So peruse the web for  briadal jewelry mountings and  if you see exactly what you  want  do some comparative shopping and find the best price for the item  chosen. Remove the stones yourself ( an easy task particularly if prong set) and if you have an appraisal from  their purchase write  down the number and size and clarity  of the chosen stones for the new engagement piece so that you sound informed when talking to the independent goldsmith you  choose to  work with locally. Consider palladium as a metal if you desire white- it has a great perceived value compared to white gold and is less allergenic than white gold. If you  find no mounting  on line, then  the jewelr should  be able to offer you a design and  the fabrication  costs and estimate the  amount of time and a delivery date if  he/she is experienced in the  art. If the person says they will have to send it out- keep searching.You can find  one jewelr that  should  be able to  do every part of the  fabrication and setting in a well equipped studio. Avoid chain jewelers- the markup is ridiculously high  compared to the worth, and the jobs are not attended to as individually as an independent jewelry maker 's focus will be. If you are creating an heirloom it is worth  seeking the  most reasonably priced and customer focused  jeweler  you can find. Also disclose the  cut and clarity of the  diamonds to be used when  discussing their setting in your mounting or one fabricated for you, or ordered for you ( as a last result!).Diamonds are all resettable unless very heavily damaged( chipped, cracked,  or an I2 class that has inclusions you can  see with the naked eye), but  chances are that you  have SI1-2 or above if you  paid a good  deal for the rings  initially. Don't let a jeweler tell you they can't use the diamonds you want  to provide  due to  some  odd sounding reason- if they try  to  invent  something that  doesn't sound right, chances are they just want to up the bill and in that case, that is not the right  jeweler for your job. You are the customer and  in that is the chance to create a lasting relationship for your luxury item purchases, any  good  goldsmith ,jeweler, or metalsmith will be as passionate about  creating a piece that pleases you  as you are about  having it made. And using an independent  jeweler allows for a unique design to be fabricated in one  place- from design to stone setting that does not look like every other ring available from the  various large manufacturers that most chains use for  the majority of their offerings.
Feel free to  follow up with your location if you  don't have  success finding a jewelr close to your  locale.
best regards,Ari