QuestionQUESTION: I have some beautiful amethyst and 14K gold cufflinks that I want to convert to drop earrings. Can I solder onto the gold while the stone is in the setting or will the heat damage the stone? Also, can I use old 14k jewelry as the solder material?
ANSWER: Dear Cathy,
The basic rule as to which gemstones are tolerant of heat from jewelry soldering is "diamond, ruby, sapphire" and then it depends on the quality of the stone and if the stone has been treated in ways which heat may disturb. Amethyst as with most other colored gems simply will not take the heat and will be ruined. So, soldering is out.
As for using the old 14k jewelry as the soldering material, this would not be soldering but a process called "fusing". This means the metal is heated to its melting point and the metals run together. The risk is very high of melting both pieces. Only a very experienced bench jeweler should attempt to fuse the metals in this situation. In reality, the jeweler would not even try it because of the risk and the use of proper gold solders results in a superior piece of workmanship. With "plumb" solders which are the same karat (actual 14k quality) but have a different metal mix to allow the solder to melt at a lower temperature than the jewelry gold, colors match well and down the road the solder joint does not show from discoloration.
Remember, jewelry solders are not the tin based solders like used for plumbing or electronics. These solders are gold alloys for gold jewelry. High heat generally from torch is needed to do the work, then the metal is cleaned and finished around the solder area, stone reset and all given the final finish.
I cannot see the cuff links so this is a question for you. Is there a place on an edge where a small hole may be drilled to allow a jump ring (gold loop) to be inserted? The loop may be inserted in a hole, loop soldered closed and put onto a proper earring to make the dangle. This does away with the need to remove the amethyst first. Soldering directly to the cuff link will mean removing the stone first.
Cathy, best wishes with the conversion of cuff links to earrings. If you need more info, please feel free to use the follow-up option to get back. Also, if you want to, please rate the answer so I may know how I am doing. Thanks for this question.
God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
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Cuff Links
QUESTION: Thomas,
Thank you for your answer. I am attaching a picture of the cufflinks for you to see. I think drilling the hole is a great idea. I think I want them to hang vertically so I would have to put the hole in the middle of the short side. What do you think? Can I use a regular drill bit or do I have to use a special one to drill through the gold?
AnswerCathy, these are lovely cuff links and will make really nice earrings. Having a photo to see makes a lot of difference on my end of the question...thanks for that.
You only need a standard drill bit made for drilling metal. Most home supply or hardware stores will have small ones. The trick is to use a small bit and leave enough metal around the hole for wear-ability. It is best if you have a starting place so the bit will not wander when started and make marks on the surface. I believe a light tap with a small nail will make a starting place. Have the metal on a flat solid surface when you tap with the nail so there in no deformation to the metal, only a small recess for starting the drill bit.
It is best to have a variable speed drill motor or rotary tool and start slowly. You might put a little paraffin wax or similar on the bit to lubricate it. You can drill without lubrication on a relatively thin section of gold. Hold the drill bit steady and the same with the cuff link face.
When drilled, you might want to slightly sand the hole on the back if any burs are there. All you need now is an earring made for dangles and you are set to go. If the loop on the earring parts is large enough and strong enough, you may not need a jump ring on the cuff link part and just need to put the earring loop through the hole and close the loop.
These should be very pretty. God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
