QuestionQUESTION: I am a jewelry designer who creates pieces using gold wire and gemstone
beads using wire wrapping techniques. I am now taking a metalsmithing
course, and have a question that my teacher is unable to figure out the
answer to. I love the clean look I see in many designs where a gemstone
bead is attached to a chain using either a loop of wire that appears to be a
seamless closed ring, OR another I have seen is a wire passed through the
bead hole with a ball on either end. I am told that a gemstone will crack if
heated, I am hoping you can explain how this is done?
ANSWER: Hello Michelle,
First let me answer the gemstone bead question: most gemstone beads, particularly those sold through Fire Mountain gems and beads ,Rio Grande and other vendors are low grade, highly included ( and overpriced by 200 or more %!) and depending on the material of varying hardness, however any metalsmithing teacher worth his or her salt should know that there are eay methods of protecting the bead from heat whilst doing a hit and run soldering operation as is required to attach a bale to a wire, adding a jump ring to a component etc.Wet wadded newsprint will accomplish this quite well and is perhaps the most inexpensive way to accomplish protecting the bead material while soldering .If the bead were of a high quality gemstone material without inclusions or very lightly included ( excepting rutilated quartz, and labradorite, spectrolite etc. which the inclusions can be, if cut correctly, of no concern- if you see no needles of tourmaline, or rutile exposed on the faceted or polished surfaces the stone may be protected then heated safely) simply using wet newsprint or a thermoprotectant ( vigor sold through companies carrying the standard Grobet catalogue and products line makes my favourite brand. I believe it is called Vigor "Heat Shield " and available from Rosenthal's supply, FDJ Tools On Time, Contenti co. ,Cookson's in the UK, Otto Frei, and a number of other jewelers supply houses. Welding supply stores also carry heat shielding pastes.You simply pack it on and then go ahead with the operation, then rinse to remove as most are clay based, or a silica gel/clay proprietary formulation. Two gemstone protectants I absolutely DO NOT recommend are "Cool Jool" and Rio Grande's heat shield powder- both are messy and useless, falling off no matter how applied, and the Cool Jool actually catching fire particularly in working gold or platinum..The wet wadded newsprint is fail-proof ! and virtually free.
Now, as I conceptualize what you want to accomplish: You would ball the end of your wire after dipping the length (plus an allowance of a bit extra to work with and a feww millimeters for the balled end) into a good firecoat and flux product like Cupronil, or the flux and firecoat of your choice ( you can make your own firecoat with denatured/methyl alcohol and boric acid added into the glass container of alcohol until it no longer dissolves then add in about a tablespoon of powdered borax to each pint of liquid , and keep well sealed with a non-metallic lid, or a lid that is coated with enamel or another chemical resistant product) hold the wire in your pliers or insulated tweezers and heat it until the metal begins to ball up, then withdraw the torch, or burner and when grey quench- at this point form the ball with any tools you need to achieve a shaped rather than balled end.So you may planish the wire to form a bale at this end and after soldering the other, if I understand what you want to do,you turn the whole over ball up the other end too, and then form ,or attach a bale or other component to make either end connectable to another part of your design. Or just ball the end and then thread it through your bead and pack on the wadded newspaper that is wet but not dripping water ( i use a product called " Cell-u-Clay" which is ground nicely as it comes from the package and is intended for papier mache' creations- it simply needs to be thoroughly, wetted and then squeeze out any excess water and it's ready for use ) and ball the other or attach a bale to either end at the same time without balling the ends, since your gemstone material is protected for at least as long as it takes to set up attaching two pieces to a wire passed through a gemstone bead and fluxing then soldering on your charcoal block or soldering board.Anything can be accomplished this way. If you just planish one end of the wire first and form it into a bale on your bench block or anvil, then after passing it through the bead, planish the other then a cold connection is feasible with no soldering necessary. The only other option is to create a threaded end on one side of the bead to which you can screw on a bead or other component that can be threaded to match with a micro-tap and die set making the bead interchangeable.Since I can't see exactly what you are trying to do I can only speculate that you are after a post through a bead that has similar ends as in a bracelet link or component for necklace, chain, bracelet, etc that links on either end or as for a pendant that can be hung from either end as from a bale..Any metalsmithing teacher should be able to figure out any operation that is required to accomplish any jewelry design .I would seriously research your instructor's qualifications before paying for any lesson in the future. Not that your instructor is a bad one, but if the person is teaching metalsmithing, even limiting the class to cold connecting operations, the person should have offered a solution provided you are able to articulate or draw your design idea.teachers that are springing up all over rarely know enough to be teaching at all- I don't say that out of anything but to reinforce that even in creative pursuits one must be a good consumer and know what you are getting for your money- and know it before you sign anything or put up a deposit! Two schools in the southeastern US, and one in the southwest often have teachers that are not experienced enough to be teaching, yet repeatedly teach classes at the 3 schools I speak of because the administrations are operating on what I consider to be the unethical side.I would no more allow anyone to teach that isn't fully qualified than I would allow a child to use a torch unsupervised.Please feel free to contact me should you have any questions about instructors or schools in the future,You can count on my unbiased, truthful answers.Be a good consumer! and good luck on your project.If you need more help write again!
Best regards,Ari
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Dear Ari,
Thank you again so much for your incredibly thorough answer, it has opened
up an entire world of design possibilities! The wet Cell-U-Clay worked
beautifully in protecting my stones, I've also ordered some of the heat shield
and flux products that you recommended. As for the beads I use, I purchase
them through a supplier who sells beautiful quality beads on Etsy, but I
suspect I must be over paying. Is there a supplier of gems as well as fine
precious/semi-precious beads in New York that you would recommend?
I am also hoping you might be able to recommend a school in New York? At
my current school, in the first class I had taken my instructor knew I had
absolutely no previous experience in metal smithing and did not even provide
any safety instruction! In fact, many of her students were intimidated by her
and fearful of asking questions. I am in Connecticut, and although I have
taken a few courses and consider myself an absolute beginner.
I had taken a wax casting class, but the piece I created was very intricate and
delicate design that I was told was too detailed for the steam casting
technique that was being taught, because it did not cast successfully. Is
there a casting house that you could recommend for me to send my pieces
to?
Also, and I fear I may be asking you too many questions, are there any books
that you could recommend with information on the techniques used in the
creation of antique jewelry (1700 - 1900). I truly cannot thank you enough
for your help and advice.
Kind regards,
Michelle
AnswerMichelle,
First nothing is too intricate for steam casting: if you can make the model, or master, you can cast it, just use the appropriate size flask, and make sure the lid fits tightly when you put it down on the heated( burned out) investment.
Second, give up on schools! Most of the instructors are there for their own ego gratification- the philosophy was handed down to me by one of my teachers long ago- it rings true in every class I have ever i attended ( I usually wind up teaching the class! or at least "assisting" the teacher!) The exception to the rule is that at Penland, or John C.Campbell folkschool or Revere academy ( west coast) there are visiting teachers that you can learn from without all the "I'm the most important figure in the jewelry making world attitude". It is particularly evident when a student goes to a class then gets on the Orchid forum for instance and drools over how their teacher was the best- then they ask a question that should have been covered in the class, usually basic, about a tool or process that was "covered" in a week long or 3 day class..it rather burns me up as you can tell!
Buy a copy of Tim McCreight's The Complete Metalsmith and join Orchid, and view their bench tube videos- you'll learn more than paying for a class..
The 42ed Street Y has a few good teachers, Metalliferous is the place to go in NY for tools,metals,findings and abundant beads of a decent quality.I will research the multitudinous places in NY and Connecticut that sell beads-but you can too:
http://www.guidetobeadwork.com
Etsy is overpriced, and usually the quality is not there, but there are exceptions,most store owners on etsy sell on ebay too ( but read carefully and don't pay exorbitant postage- that is your first clue somethings not right), some have brick and mortar stores as well- before buying do your homework and go to their B&M store to purchase if its in your driving or train area.. buy gemstones,metals and tools from a reputable dealer ( like me!)that isn't out to make a fortune overpricing the standard Grobet catalogue that every other jewelry supply has in stock- look to alternate sources too ,tool sellers, the industrial and metalworking category on online sites, www.metalcyberspace.com or on ebay you'll find a world of good deals, same for Jewelry TV. I visited this CT bead store listed below, the prices were fair and the folks knowledgeable.Whether its still open though is unknown:
Rock Garden
URL: http://www.rockgarden.com/
17 South Main Street
Branford, (CT) 06405
(In the Old Branford Theatre Building - across from the Blackstone Library)
203-488-6699
Hours: Mon-Fri 11-7, Sat 10-6, (Summer) Sun 12-5
Large selection of Beads, Findings, Charms, Seed Beads, Czech Glass, Swarovski, Wire, Tools, Books, Cabachons, Rivoli's, Kumihimo, Metal Clay. Our Own Lampwork. Helpful service.
Dover books has lots of titles on antique jewelry collecting- at reduced prices, and amazon.com,www.alibris.com and WWW.abebooks.com are all sources for jewelry books.I like Elizabeth Olver's books ( though repetitive so browse first to make sure its not material in other titles), Jinks McGrath's books,Carles Codina The Complete Book of Jewelry Making" - though far from complete has much usable information, Charles Lewton Brain's"Cheap thrills in the Tool Shop:Bench Tips and other Tricks" is worth the money (brain press is the best place to buy it if not on amazon) ,Oppi Unracht, Harold O'Conner ( if you see a class offered by him-take it!) he's in your area, I could list more but if you start with Tim McCreight you'll be a great metalsmith in no time- learn on your own..take only specialized classes when you truly don't understand a concept or need to see it demonstrated- but with Bench tube on Orchid, you'll find a world of how-to -videos that you can watch on the PC..If you do go for classes call the instructor to get a "feel" for their personality, ask what they will cover and any other questions you may have - if they are willing to give you ten minutes then go forward, if they refuse- forget it, and if it doesn't feel right, keep looking for another instructor.Mineral and lapidary clubs are a great source of Old Timers that have much knowledge and skill and no one to pass it on to, same goes for their having equipment that is often maintained by the club that anyone can use ( with membership) ..check out your local area's club offerings and then visit them before plunking down the 12-20 dollar a year fee..some are good, others not so good..make sure they are members of the AFMS (american federation of mineralogical societies- or other larger bodies..the federated clubs have benefits, scholarships , insurance, and great members that are willing to teach free..usually meetings have a demo included and studio time, even though they are primarily "rock" clubs, most are making cabs, or faceting or specializing in other jewelry pursuits..
Hope this enlightens you..and when you attend a class that's not going well- demand your money back and quit..Kate Wolf, in your area also teaches wax work- she's a good instructor, Tim McCreight great and there are a few others . I would love to know who was the instructor that told you you couldn't steam cast x, feel free to email me privately with their info-for my own notes..and to help others avoid taking classes with that person in the future- if someone knows you are a beginner, the first thing they should cover is studio safety particularly when working with gasses and torches, powerful equipment and chemicals.It really gets me when a school like William Holland for example has students take Silver 1 three times before they "allow" them to advance to the next level-purely for money and their instructors leave a lot to be desired, the "director" is a , well, not so nice, and allows fraud to go on unreproached at that school by favourites of hers that return year after year to teach or what they propose is "volunteering" to teach classes- that's total BS, they get paid, charge hidden fees and otherwise, rip off students that travel from all over the country to attend for a week- the John C.Campbell Folkschool, almost right down the road is a far better school though slightly more expensive and the metals program is hit-or-miss given some of the instructors -yet they have really great ones too......and then there are the metal clay people- don't even get me started on them!in a word metal clay is never going to be as strong as the metal its made from, and the instructors with 5 exceptions in the USA are generally talentless
I hope this gives you some info..
Best Regards,Ari
