Removing Gypsy Set Stones: A Guide for Metalsmiths

Question
Hi Thomas

I am taking a metalsmith class and am working on a sterling silver ring with gypsy set stones. I had a hard time setting 2 of the stones for some reason, which caused a lot of damage to the metal. Not thinking (it was v. late) I went over the ring with 180 grit emery and scratched 2 of the stones pretty badly. I thought they were set deep enough that the emery would not touch them. Is there any way I can remove these stones? They are just cubics so not too concerned, but would still like to finish the piece. I was going to gift it to my sister for xmas :\

My class isn't for another week so thought I'd post a message here to see if I can get an answer sooner.

Thanks,
Katrina :)

Answer
Katrina,

Gypsy sets are not easy.  I generally hammer set the edges then burnish the inside of the metal edge. Then I get into doing metal clean-up. I like to put my sanding paper on a flat stick, wrapped tightly and paper scored on the inside with each turn around the stick to help provide square edges. This provides very good control around the stones.  Also, a rotary abrasive will work well with good control but be careful of leaving dips in the metal. If marks are really deep, start with a few safe file strokes.

See this link for one method of setting the stones, courtesy of Ganoksin/Orchid.  I do it slightly differently but this is a good method:

http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/gypsy-setting.htm

You might be able to slightly undercut the stone seat for the girdle and be able to preserve metal. The undercut will likely require a slightly larger stone.


For now, the idea is to remove the stones. You want as much metal left as possible. For that, sacrifice the CZ's.  Take a pointed steel rod, place it on the center of the stone and whack the rod to break out the stone. Support the ring on a ring mandrel or in a ring clamp to prevent bending the shank.  You may try this from the back if the top doesn't work right away.Place the ring top down on the work area. From the back the pointed end will go to the edge of the stone and tend to push it out and possibly break it in the process.

Write back if need be.  God Bless and Peace.  Thomas.