QuestionHave a flat lapis stone set in 18k gold ring which needs to be removed.
The bezel is a rope type style.
Would like to know recommended tools, liquids (in case it was glued as well) and any other suggestions.
thanks so very much
AnswerHi, June.
If the stone is not glued or held in by thin, fold over prongs on the back side, the process becomes quite difficult and means metal must be cut away from the bezel to try and preserve the gemstone and not do extensive damage to the 18k setting.
If the ring is of no concern, a jeweler can literally cut the ring in half and spread it apart to remove the stone. Generally, a ring done that way can be repaired later but if not done well the repair will show.
If the lapis is of no concern, it may be broken out but I really do not like doing that to a nice stone. A ring may be restored in many cases but a broken stone is...broken.
I believe your situation is beyond normal do it yourself work unless you are an experienced jeweler. Even then, the knowledge of restoration work to be done following stone removal is in the jeweler's thoughts.
YOUR LIKELY SOLUTION is much easier than either of the above. With a rope style bezel, the stone is almost certainly cemented in place. Can you see the stone from inside the ring? Are there any small prongs pushed on the back of the stone? If so, a jeweler can remove the stone fairly easily. If no prongs inside, the stone is most likely held by cement of some sort. If you can see the back of the stone, shine a light on that area and look for a tell-tale shiny, wet looking line around where the stone touches the metal. That would be a cement like epoxy. If there is a brownish/amber substance around the inside, that would also be a cement but older and darkened and dull. Take the same look from the top, looking carefully around the edge of the stone and the area into which it is fitted. If you can see the edges of the stone is it certainly cemented because a bezel is pressed over the edges otherwise. A rope bezel is not generally conducive to being pressed over a stone and certainly not a thin flat lapis because of breakage concerns.
The best solvent for most cements used is acetone. This is in some fingernail polish remover or may be purchased at a home supply store. The ring is soaked in a closed container for a day or so. A lid is needed because acetone will evaporate and you do not want to breath the fumes. Also, keep away from flames because it will burn. After the soak, remove the ring, rinse and look for signs of loosened cement. If you can push from the back do so gently and see if the stone is loose. If only the top is obtainable, take a tooth pick or other fine but soft item and see if you can pry gently on the edge of the stone. A flat lapis can be chipped by pressure on the edges so be quite careful. No success? Soak longer and try again, looking for residue of loosened or dissolving cement.
This warning is needed: I know some lapis is dyed to make it a deeper blue. Solvents can sometimes remove the dye. Check the solution to see if any color is in solution and wipe a piece of paper towel on the stone after a short time in the solvent and see if any blue shows. If so, you will have to go to a jeweler to get the work done because a solvent will leave the stone looking unlike it did originally.
A jeweler may be able to heat the ring gently but enough to loosen the cement, avoiding damage to the ring. This is a quick method and generally works but care is taken to protect the stone from direct heat. Just hot enough to be very uncomfortable to the finger is needed to loosen epoxy type cements.
June, likely you can soak the ring and get the stone out. Best wishes on that working for you.
God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
