QuestionHello, I saw an item in Jewelry Artist mag. about making a hardwood swage block but when I went to the web site about it it was in a past issue. Do you know how to make a wood swage block(ie, dimensions, hole sizes,etc.) and how to go about making it or a web site with instructions? Thanks Debbie
AnswerHello Debbie,
Well it all depends on what size pieces you make as to the dimensions you want in a swage block. You can find how to videos on make magazine's web site. and In the Orchid at ganoksin archives ( under bench tips). however the easiest way is to get out the catalog you were looking at and use those dimensions- most are pretty standard sizes. If you use a lot of soft metals ( high karat gold, fine silver or well annealed sterling ) then a wood swage is appropriate.It will mar less depending on the hammers you use- I personally like metal blocks though as it does the trick faster. The main consideration in metal over wood is to maintain the swage blaock with a bit of light machine oil to prevent its rusting or use the new anti-rust drawer liners to prevent rust in your bench.
FDJ Tools on time .com , Monsterslayer.com, Rosenthal Supply ,Contenti.com and any number of jewelers suppliers sell swaging blocks-The prices vary widely- FDJ usually being lowest on line for the highest quality ( as compared to a bigger seller like Rio grande) but It is also easy to go to a local woodworker or machinist and have custom ones made for you.
IF you ask the machinist to make you a block with a "v" grove and some varied depths and widths of "u" shaped grooves leaving about a quarter inch between each groove you want cut into blocks of tool steel or case hardened steel you will probably pay about 12-15 dollars for it, then ask that person to finish it to a 6 micron polished finished ( easy to maintain and quite flat)- for another 2-5 bucks.. I had this done and asked the machine shop to leave a 6 inch flat area on the end to give me 2 tools in one as I can use that flat end as an anvil or to flatten anything that needs it. the dimensions of my block are 12"x12" x 2 1/2" square which is large but works for many purposes as I can also turn it over and use the backside for a large flattening area for sheet, hammered finishes on a large sheet of fine silver or gold that I can then just cut into strips and form bangles, cuffs, etc, and for stamping etc..
If you choose a woodworker , or have access to a router ( a dremel tool will do the job too! there are router bits available for it that will cut nice grooves for tubing, and swaging smaller items= the packaging shows the eventual shape the bit will cut) you can make your own, or have that person route some grooves of whichever shapes you desire to your specifications.
You'll probably want to start with a 1/8" or 1/4" groove and graduate up to a 1-1 1/2" groove- anything larger is easiest to bend on a mandrel as opposed to swaging it as the curve is then more akin to taking a wooden bat ( get one at a thrift store) and saw into three pieces- you'll get a bracelet mandrel, a knobby end for dapping bowl sized pieces or cups, etc., and another long tapered length to use for those larger than 1 1/2 " curves- a cheap way top add to your tool collection!
I remember seeing an article not that long ago in Art Jewelry magazine or lapidary journal (now called jewelry arts magazine) too. I don't remember which one but If you go to the Art jewelry mag site search their archives it may be there ..
Hope this gives you an idea or helps in some way.
Best regards,Ari
