QuestionQUESTION: Hi, I have a designer bracelet which looks to have an acid stain on the front from the runoff of the test using nitric acid. How can I clean or remove this stain. Also the bracelet is sterling silver with a thin gold wash. I do not ming if I lose the gold wash but I need to lose it off of the whole bracelet. Thank you.
ANSWER: Grant,
That is a tough question without seeing the finish on the piece.
I have several questions to start with.
1.Is it high polished or does it have a texture?
2.Does the inside of the bracelet also have the same or similar finish as well as patina?
3.Did you do the test and are you sure it was Nitric acid?
4. Do you have a pin plater?
5. Does the stain appear to be coming from under the plating or to be on top?
6.. What color is the stain?
7.Is the piece an antique that refinishing might effect the value?
8. Is it possible to add a photo?
The answers to these questions will give me a better idea how to approach the solution to our problem. Without the proper information I wouldn't want to advise you to do the wrong thing.
I wish I could be more helpful but at this point it wouldn't be helpful to try to answer you.
Please respond and I will try to get right back to you.
Thanks,
Chris
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: 1. This item has a light texture.
2. yes.
3. No I did not do the test, I am not sure but it looks like an acid test. There is also an acid test on the inside which has the same color.
4. I do not know what this is.
5. It is on top.
6. whitish
7. not an antique, it is a designer bracelet made by VON MUSILIN and can be quite expensive.
8. I can definitely add photo's I am just not sure how to add them here.
AnswerThanks for all the info. The slight finish might make the job more difficult on the top however you are probably safe on the inside to try a light rouge hand cloth on the stain. I have found that sometimes a simple non invasive approach is best to start with. I remember a tarnish free cloth we could buy from 3M that actually was impregnated with a tarnish removing chemical that might just work on this stain, however I would try a small area on the inside first to see how it does. If you polish too hard it might change the finish but a light wipe may be just enough to encourage the stain to let go. and may not even hurt the gold wash. I doubt if this will work but it shouldn't hurt to attempt. If it succeeds then you can try the same method lightly on the top stain.
If that doesn't work I have been able to remove some acid stains with Baking soda and warm water and a light cloth... again don't scrub too hard as to damage the finish and start on the inside stain to try it first. you might even try a soak in a pan on top of a large piece of aluminum foil or in an aluminum pan. and Hot not boiling but hot water. This has also been very effective in the past at removing stains and tarnish from Silver. and it shouldn't hurt the gold wash or the patina
If the Stain still persists then a more drastic approach may be the alternative.
The acid test for sterling leaves a milky residue so at least you have confirmed that the bracelet is Sterling or better. the darker usually brown it gets the less silver and more alloy are present in most silver pieces.
Without a picture it is difficult to know what tools or materials produced the finish on the front of the bracelet. This is critical to being able to repair any damage that may occur from having to actually polish off the stain. some times items are simply bead blasted or sanded with various materials to create their individual finishes. Taking another piece of silver and duplicating the finish usually will instill the confidence to take the drastic step to polish out the stain knowing that you can replace the finish. Having a pen plater that can match the gold wash will also be useful and can be also tried out on a second piece prior to working on the bracelet. then you can first start on the inside and proceed to the top. If you are brave enough to call the manufacturer and ask how they finished the piece and what karat they used in the gold wash, that information could be valuable to your ability to restore the piece.
many designers will not share that type of information however some will actually offer to warranty the piece. but most will want a pretty penny to refurbish it even though it is Much easier for them because they have the original tools and chemicals to restore the finish. Sometimes a little schmoozing and a nice story will go a long way to help in those matters. More often it's the almighty Dollar that wins out. However The correct information can make all the difference in the world to perfectly matching both the finish texture and color of gold wash economically . I would at least attempt to give them a call if the original designer is known. If not then I suggest to go the rout of the second piece of metal to match both the texture and wash color. If you have a plating machine you can use the proper carat gold and probably match the color with out too much effort.
I hope these tips have helped you to approach your project with a little more confidence.
Remember go slow and work on the inside first to test your methods after you have successfully achieved it on a sample piece of sterling to compare your results first. Using fine muslin buffs and rouge should work in your hand piece but work on a sample before you attempt to try it on the piece and then you shouldn't feel too bad if you have good results with your practice piece. You will earn your fee on this one if it doesn't respond to the first two methods. Don't be afraid to tell your customer there is a difference in fees if the first two methods don't work either. The piece does warrant the extra expense to restore so tell them what is involved if you are not successful at removing the stain easily and have to refinish the piece.
let me know if you have any more questions and how it turns out.
Chris
