QuestionI have a 2 carat pear shape diamond set in platinum with side trillions - the prong on one trillion is sharp. I have taken the ring to 3 jewelers -the first told me that the whole setting shoulkd be replaced (it is 18 yeras old and I never take it off).
The next one said the trillion prong must have caught on something and could be repaired but "Why not update the ring and buy a new setting - I am sentimental as well as lovr of classic setting.
The 3rd told me that 3 prongs nedded to be fixed -the trillion and 2 others which he suggested should be reinforced with 19CT gold - it says this is the correct way to build up the setting.
Of course this repair is $75 compared with 1200-1400!
Could you advise me as to if this sound correct as to repair.
Thank you for your expert advice.
Barbara
AnswerDear Barbara,
Thank you for this question about repair to your platinum ring. My first suggestion is this:
Please take your ring off to clean and check all stones for security. While platinum is a most wonderful metal for holding stones securely, soil and abrasive particles can work into areas between the prongs and the diamonds. Over time with enough wear the stones may loosen and then abrasion becomes worse, leading to danger of stone security and the owner is not aware of the danger. In the lease, take the ring to a jewelers more than once a year to have all professionally cleaned and examined. Many of the best jewelers do not charge for cleaning and checking your jewelry.
I cannot see your ring and need it in my hands to suggest which prongs be repaired. However, after 18 years worn prongs is not surprising. Why did the jeweler suggest using 19kt gold and not platinum? This is why: To build up prongs directly with platinum will destroy the stones. The heat is much too intense for even diamonds to survive without damage. The gold may be applied without damage to the stones when done correctly. There is one alternative: Platinum may be used to add to the prongs and gold solders used to bond the platinum. This leaves a fine line of white gold solder between the original prong and the new metal but the metal top facing wear in the future is platinum. To do the work in this manner is my suggestion.
The price of $75 for the prongs is reasonable. If done with platinum bonded to the ring with white gold solders the price will be higher but not excessively so. Ask the jeweler about doing the work in this manner and what it might cost.
If the ring is repaired with white gold only, the ring should be given a rhodium plate on the surface to help the colors match. I have built up the prongs of platinum jewelry with either high karat white gold or platinum soldered with white gold many times. The customers have yet to be dissatisfied with the work over time following the repair work.
Barbara, you like the classic setting. Guess what..so do I. Too many new settings with multiples of small accent diamonds all over the ring have proven to be painful purchases and painful sales for some. Too often the small side stones are lost, lost again and lost again. No person wants to live with the thought of losing more stones and going to the trouble of replacement.
I find the best of today's designs to be wonderful, such as those by Hearts on Fire, Peter Storm and several others. Many lesser quality designs made to suit the trends are not so durable even if lovely in first view. If you like your classic style and are content with prong repair as I have described, then stay with the ring you have loved for these many years. With regular cleaning and checking by a jeweler, if the time comes the ring must be retired you will know it. At this point, your ring may be made secure again.
You may rate this answer if you want. If not, that is ok. If you need to ask more about your question, feel free to use a follow-up to get back with me. Fair enough?
God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
