QuestionI have been having acrylic, sculpted nails done for years. I have moved, and
the nail techs in my area aren't big on sculpted nails. They either do nail
tips that have the acrylic over them or they do nail tips with fiberglass
wraps. What are the pros and cons of sculpted, vs tips with acrylic, vs tips
with fiberglass?
And just for grins, tell me about gel--although no one I've called is offering
that.
What should I be asking when I call a potential tech?
One person I called mentioned drilling and backfilling. What's that? I've
had drilling on the underside--but not on the topside. It sounds scary.
Thanks for you time.
Billie
AnswerI came of age in the day when most techs sculpted their acrylics on forms; at least-- everyone in my area did it that way-- and the general consensus was that tips were "cheating."
Times have changed and now tips are the norm. Even for the top techs in the biz! Just as with sculpting on forms, there are techs who do excellent overlays on tips, and techs who should seek employment in other industries.
So the bottom line on sculpts vs forms is that it isn't about the technique, it's about the skillz of the tech.
I have a personal preference towards forms myself. I feel it gives a more custom-fit product, and I like that the acrylic is in total contact with the natural nail-- as opposed to having part of the enhancement connected to the nail with glue and the acrylic only in contact with part of the nail. Acrylic typically has a much higher adhesion than glue.
The downsides I see with tips are that too many techs attempt to use tips to save time. Too often they just grab a tip from the box that is the closest fit and slap it on the nail. In order to get the best mileage from tips, it's important to size them properly, which often means filing the tip to customize it's shape and size for a perfect fit to the nail. Another problem with tips can be if the plastic isn't flexible enough to flatten out or curve in enough to fit the natural nail. Many people with wider and/or flatter nails have trouble with tips that split or lift at the corners because the preformed plastic can't maintain the shape of the nail.
On the up side, tips come in all kinds of shapes, lengths, and qualities! If you have found a nail tech who is proficient with tips, chances are she has just what she'll need to create the perfect nails for you! Because of their preformed nature, tips have curves built into them, so you can have nails that "grow" straight off the nailbed, or curve in a long, graceful arc, or even curl into a tight talon right off the end of your finger! You have the option of tips that taper gently or have parallel sides. This gives the nail tech, and you, lots of options for creating a finished product with very specific results.
If you are already used to acrylic, I would stick with acrylic. Fiberglass is a process of creating a nail enhancement using medical-grade resin (nail glue) to build up the structure and reinforcing it with a layer or two of fiberglass mesh (fabric made of finely spun glass fibers-- just like they make boats and Corvettes out of, only much much thinner.) Fiberglass wraps are really very cool as a nail enhancement and when done well they look gorgeous! They are very thin and lightweight and can look exceptionally natural. The biggest downside to fiberglass is that the resin isn't as durable over time as acrylic. The resin becomes brittle after awhile. Also, the initial strength is not on par with acrylic and many clients who are accustomed to wearing acrylic will experience more breaking with fiberglass just because they aren't used to the more delicate product.
Currently, gel is the product that seems to be getting the most attention, and also the one that is getting the most controversy. True gels are brushed onto the nail like thick polish. They come in a vast array of colors and can be in small pots that you dip your brush into, or in bottles that squeeze the gel directly onto the nail before it is brushed on. They must cure (harden) under an ultra violet light. They do NOT involved any sort of powder! There is no such thing as "powdered gel!" although some techs may mix powder into their gel in order to give it more "body" for easier sculpting or to reinforce it for additional strength. Gels can be thick, they can be thin. They can be overlaid on tips, or sculpted on forms. Some brands use only one gel that is applied in multiple layers, some brands use two or three gels that are applied in layers (base, build, topcoat type gels.)
Gels are popular because they are more flexible on the nail and therefore have more advantage with moving with the natural nail as it grows and flexes. This means most clients are able to wear gel a week or two longer than acrylic between fills before they develop lifting. Gel is also very shiny when it is dry. It looks like clear polish. And that shine lasts! Also, many people report a noticeable difference in weight, saying that gel is lighter and doesn't feel "tight" on their fingers.
Gel products are more expensive than acrylics and most salon prices reflect this. The biggest problem with the increasing popularity of gel services is that many salons across the nation are scamming customers by charging higher prices for gel nails when, in fact, they are doing acrylic nails with a gel topcoat. This is why I am so emphatic in saying that there is no such thing as a "powder gel!" Gel is called "gel" because of it's gelatinous properties. And it is gelatinous right from the manufacturer! There is nothing the nail tech has to do to "make" it into a gel! (Because I have heard people who consider the acrylic "gel" like after the liquid and powder have been mixed on the brush.)
A backfill is a technique for maintaining the white tip of a permanent french manicure. It involves filing away the free edge to thin it down, then applying new white acrylic (or gel, or other color of product if you're getting fancy) where the white should go for a french manicure. It includes a regular fill, with new pink being applied to the regrowth of the nail. If you wear pink and white nails on a regular basis, this is a great service! It means that your french manicure is always perfect.
Drills-- or electric files-- are a popular tool for pros, and much like a curling iron in the hands of a hair stylist, they can be good or scary depending on the skill of the professional. Generally speaking I say don't be afraid of a tech who uses a drill. Drills get hot just due to the friction that is built up, you should be able to say something to the tech if this happens and she should immediately fix it! Heat shouldn't be a major issue and you shouldn't be expected to endure anything uncomfortable. The drill is just another type of file, one that moves fast but also is much better at working "inside the lines" than a flat file. No matter what type of file is used, it should never cut grooves into your nail, or cut the skin. If a mistake happens it should be rare and first aid should be addressed if the skin is cut. Also, make sure that files, buffers, and little sandpaper bands on the drills are discarded after each client! Some files and buffers can be disinfected (not legal in CA) so make sure if the tech doesn't throw these things away after each client, that they are being disinfected!
As for what should you ask? Ask about disinfection. Don't just settle for an evasive answer such as "we disinfect" or "we do everything we are supposed to" ask WHAT gets disinfected and HOW it gets disinfected. You could check out your state's website for information on laws regarding salons, or call the Department of Consumer Affairs-- or your state's equivalent.
Ask what products they use. Many salons do not like giving out this information... I have no idea why? But you are paying for someone to apply chemical products directly to your body, you deserve to know the brand name of the product that are being used! Ask if their acrylic contains MMA and then ask how they know. (MMA is a chemical component of acrylic monomers. It is largely used in industrial manufacturing and dentistry. It is NOT a "cosmetic" acrylic and it is ILLEGAL in many states and the FDA has declared it a "poisonous and deleterious" ingredient that is NOT safe for cosmetic use.) Many salon who use industrial or dental acrylic know they are doing so and know that they are not supposed to and will automatically tell you no if you ask, and may lie about the brand of products they use, "OPI" and "Creative" or "CND" are popular products that most clients recognize the name of and are often the answers given when asked. Ask to SEE their product containers or MSDS (material safety data sheets.) If you ask how they know they aren't using MMA, it usually throws off anyone who is just regurgitating rhetoric answers.
The best thing to do is to pay close attention to women around town who have their nails done. When you see someone with great nails, ask where they have them done. Make sure you get the name of the person who referred you as well, we love to show our appreciation to our regulars for their positive word of mouth!
