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A History of Rhinestones: From Bohemian Glass to Modern Sparkle

Rhinestones have a glittering past. Originally rhinestones
where referred to Czechoslovakian or Bohemian glass dating as
far back as the 13th century in Bohemia and the Czech Republic.
Both have a history steeped in beautiful hand blown glass as
well as molded and cut glass. By 1918 glass was no longer
limited to functional items. Czechoslovakian glass began to make
its appearance in dazzling and brilliant jewelry. This Czech
glass became known as rhinestones. Rhinestones were manmade gems
from highly refined glass. By using various metals the glass was
colored to the desired shade. It was then pressed into molds.
Each stone was then ground and polished by machine, resulting in
a brilliant glass stone. Often the stones were foiled on the
back which increased their brilliance. Today, the same refining
process is still used. You will often here rhinestones referred
to as paste. Originally paste was referred to a glass stone that
made of ground glass which was molded and then melted, producing
an opaque dense glass frosted stone. Paste had many air bubbles
and swirl marks. The high lead content glass was then polished
and faceted, and set on either copper or silver resulting in a
brilliant stone. Today the term paste usually refers to
rhinestones. In Europe rhinestones are often referred to as
paste, strass, and diamante. Austria is another area with a
history in rhinestone production. In 1891 Daniel Swarovski
created a new glass cutting machine which quite literally
revolutionized the jewelry business. This machine could cut
faceted glass, producing finely finished product in a very short
time. Prior to this invention it would take a very long time for
each stone to be hand cut and finished. Swarovski’s background
in glass making, combined with his glass cutting machine soon
found him producing rhinestones with a lead content of over 30%.
The brilliance of these rhinestones was superior to anything
seen on the market. Swarovski wasn’t content with his invention
and the best rhinestones ever seen. His next invention was once
again transforming to the jewelry industry. He created a vacuum
plating for the backs of the stones with silver and gold,
reducing the need for hand labor. Still today Swarovski
rhinestones are recognized as the highest quality in the
industry. Over 80% of rhinestone jewelry manufactured in America
use Swarovski rhinestones. Rhinestones have played an important
role in costume jewelry for hundreds of years. It is used to
enhance and accent, and sometimes rhinestones will provide the
entire design. During the Victorian period common motifs for
jewelry included snakes, flowers, and hands most often adorned
with rhinestones. The 1890s were a time for extravagant jewelry
heavily adorned with rhinestones. As time moved forward designs
became simpler with figural shapes once again making their
fashion statement. However this time they were small and more
elegant with small rhinestone accents. During the Edwardian
period extravagance had made a comeback with diamonds and pearls
being the focal point. Once again rhinestones were in heavy use,
often used to imitate the real thing. During the 1920s fashions
were rapidly changing. Dresses had gone from fitted to a looser
more comfortable style. Two distinct styles occurred during this
era – the feminine style and the androgynous style. Jewelry from
the 1920s drew on the art deco period. The majority of
rhinestone jewelry was made with clear rhinestones. As the 1920s
moved jewelry once again became bolder. Dramatic color was in
style. Designer Coco Chanel was an integral figure in the
setting the stage for jewelry of this era. During the 1930s
during the depression labor intensive fashion was no longer
feasible. While the world was in turmoil, jewelry represented an
affordable comfort to many women. Inexpensive costume jewelry
could be used to revitalize an old outfit. The industry began to
produce bright colored enamel pieces accented with rhinestones.
Dogs, birds, or cats with a rhinestone eye were common place.
The jewelry during the 1940s once again became big and bold with
rhinestones being produced in every imaginable color, large
stones set on large bold settings was the norm. By the 1950s
there were two very distinct looks – elegant and sophisticated
for the more mature woman, and casual and fun for the younger
woman. The 1950s saw jewelry made completely from rhinestones.
For the younger woman were flirty pieces, for the older woman
sophisticated elegance. Rhinestone parures became extremely
popular. In 1953 the aurora borealis rhinestone was introduced
to the market with its fabulous array of color. It was an
instant hit! By 1960s women were wearing very functional
clothing. By the late 1960s the hippie fashions were extremely
popular with their roots tied to Mother Nature. Tie dyed shirts,
long flowing skirts, frayed jeans were everywhere. This
generation had no interest in rhinestone jewelry. By the mid
1970s the punk look had been born and the rhinestone was
revitalized. It was the disco movement brought the rhinestone
back to center stage. The disco movement turned into the club
movement during the 1980s and rhinestone jewelry continued to
gain popularity. Since the 1970s rhinestone have remained main
stream in the jewelry world. They continue to gain popularity
and today there is a style to suit almost every ones needs.
There is rhinestone jewelry which is perfect for a bride,
rhinestone jewelry for a prom girl, rhinestone jewelry for the
young and fun crowd, the business woman, the sophisticated
woman, and the mature woman. Beautiful pieces of rhinestone
jewelry adorn almost every woman’s accessories. If trends are an
indication of the rhinestones future, it appears to have a
vibrant healthy life ahead of it. Pleasing for most woman with a
fashion sense who instantly recognize the value and beauty of
rhinestones!