Rhinestones have a glittering past. Originally rhinestones where
referred to Czechoslovakian or Bohemian glass dating as far back
as the 13th century in Bohemia and the Czech Republic. Both have
a history steeped in beautiful hand blown glass as well as
molded and cut glass. By 1918 glass was no longer limited to
functional items. Czechoslovakian glass began to make its
appearance in dazzling and brilliant jewelry. This Czech glass
became known as rhinestones.
Rhinestones were manmade gems from highly refined glass. By
using various metals the glass was colored to the desired shade.
It was then pressed into molds. Each stone was then ground and
polished by machine, resulting in a brilliant glass stone. Often
the stones were foiled on the back which increased their
brilliance.
Today, the same refining process is still used. You will often
here rhinestones referred to as paste. Originally paste was
referred to a glass stone that made of ground glass which was
molded and then melted, producing an opaque dense glass frosted
stone. Paste had many air bubbles and swirl marks. The high lead
content glass was then polished and faceted, and set on either
copper or silver resulting in a brilliant stone. Today the term
paste usually refers to rhinestones. In Europe rhinestones are
often referred to as paste, strass, and diamante. Austria is
another area with a history in rhinestone production. In 1891
Daniel Swarovski created a new glass cutting machine which quite
literally revolutionized the jewelry business.
This machine could cut faceted glass, producing finely finished
product in a very short time. Prior to this invention it would
take a very long time for each stone to be hand cut and
finished. Swarovski’s background in glass making, combined with
his glass cutting machine soon found him producing rhinestones
with a lead content of over 30%. The brilliance of these
rhinestones was superior to anything seen on the market.
Swarovski wasn’t content with his invention and the best
rhinestones ever seen. His next invention was once again
transforming to the jewelry industry. He created a vacuum
plating for the backs of the stones with silver and gold,
reducing the need for hand labor. Still today Swarovski
rhinestones are recognized as the highest quality in the
industry. Over 80% of rhinestone jewelry manufactured in America
use Swarovski rhinestones.
Rhinestones have played an important role in costume jewelry for
hundreds of years. It is used to enhance and accent, and
sometimes rhinestones will provide the entire design. During the
Victorian period common motifs for jewelry included snakes,
flowers, and hands most often adorned with rhinestones.
The 1890s were a time for extravagant jewelry heavily adorned
with rhinestones. As time moved forward designs became simpler
with figural shapes once again making their fashion statement.
However this time they were small and more elegant with small
rhinestone accents.
During the Edwardian period extravagance had made a comeback
with diamonds and pearls being the focal point. Once again
rhinestones were in heavy use, often used to imitate the real
thing.
During the 1920s fashions were rapidly changing. Dresses had
gone from fitted to a looser more comfortable style. Two
distinct styles occurred during this era – the feminine style
and the androgynous style. Jewelry from the 1920s drew on the
art deco period. The majority of rhinestone jewelry was made
with clear rhinestones.
As the 1920s moved jewelry once again became bolder. Dramatic
color was in style. Designer Coco Chanel was an integral figure
in the setting the stage for jewelry of this era.
During the 1930s during the depression labor intensive fashion
was no longer feasible. While the world was in turmoil, jewelry
represented an affordable comfort to many women.
Inexpensive costume jewelry could be used to revitalize an old
outfit. The industry began to produce bright colored enamel
pieces accented with rhinestones. Dogs, birds, or cats with a
rhinestone eye were common place.
The jewelry during the 1940s once again became big and bold with
rhinestones being produced in every imaginable color, large
stones set on large bold settings was the norm. By the 1950s
there were two very distinct looks – elegant and sophisticated
for the more mature woman, and casual and fun for the younger
woman. The 1950s saw jewelry made completely from rhinestones.
For the younger woman were flirty pieces, for the older woman
sophisticated elegance. Rhinestone parures became extremely
popular.
In 1953 the aurora borealis rhinestone was introduced to the
market with its fabulous array of color. It was an instant hit!
By 1960s women were wearing very functional clothing. By the
late 1960s the hippie fashions were extremely popular with their
roots tied to Mother Nature. Tie dyed shirts, long flowing
skirts, frayed jeans were everywhere. This generation had no
interest in rhinestone jewelry. By the mid 1970s the punk look
had been born and the rhinestone was revitalized. It was the
disco movement brought the rhinestone back to center stage. The
disco movement turned into the club movement during the 1980s
and rhinestone jewelry continued to gain popularity.
Since the 1970s rhinestone have remained main stream in the
jewelry world. They continue to gain popularity and today there
is a style to suit almost every ones needs. There is rhinestone
jewelry which is perfect for a bride, rhinestone jewelry for a
prom girl, rhinestone jewelry for the young and fun crowd, the
business woman, the sophisticated woman, and the mature woman.
Beautiful pieces of rhinestone jewelry adorn almost every
woman’s accessories. If trends are an indication of the
rhinestones future, it appears to have a vibrant healthy life
ahead of it. Pleasing for most woman with a fashion sense who
instantly recognize the value and beauty of rhinestones!
© Copyright Sher Matsen, All Rights Reserved.