QuestionMy partner has pretty old Italian platinum wedding sets from his family and we want to have them taken apart and made into something for the both of us. We have two rings and some really awesome diamonds to work with. Where do we start. Insurance and appraisal. More important where do we go? I live in the S.F . Bay Area and haven't a clue. Who works with platinum.
Answer I would recommend having the Platinum refined by Hoover and Strong. Simply go to their website and print out the refining page. send your scrap into them- I have used H&S for 35 years and they are 100 trustworthy- unlike the ads filling television at present and giving you a fraction of your precious metal's worth. They will pay you in cash (cheque) after processing your platinum if that's what you choose and then take the money and have your piece designed by a reputable independent jeweler in your area.
If I knew your area I could recommend the best designer I know of..If you care to send me your location I will reply. Platinum work requires a specific knowledge and equipment due to its high heat requirements, do not just any gold smith or metal smith can work in Platinum despite what one may tell you. There are a number of chain jewelry stores like Zales, Jared,Freidman's etc, that purchase the mountings and set stones into them, If you approach a chain store that's most likely what will occur.
To have a unique and personalized piece made requires a Platinum smith for the best results. I , a goldsmith can work in Platinum but I know that the results will be far better if I consulted with you as a jewelry designer then sent the work out to a Platinum casting service or Platinum smith.Given the cost of materials , particularly Platinum right now, you would be best advised to recoup your money from your raw materials and then have that value to work with. Any time you supply a jeweler with metals tell them you would like the scrap back- regardless of the metal you are supplying ( gold, silver, palladium, etc.) . You should receive the value of your metal not someone else.
If the intention is to use the same metal you want melted down in the piece for sentimental reasons, you should discuss that directly with your platinum smith and whomever is the designer. It is quite difficult to go through the steps required to process someone's scrap into a usable sheet, wire , etc, Casting is easier but requires the wax model to be made which takes time and incurs a separate charge. Then melting down the scrap and pouring it directly into the investment flask, or other mould the jeweler uses. With all that in mind, when sending your scrap to Hoover and Strong, or which ever refinery you choose, you may request part of your settlement in the materials that will be used to make your custom ( one-off ) piece- for instance if it's a ring, you will need a shank, or the wire to construct the shank, a setting which can be prefabricated or not, and since platinum fuses to itself no solder would be worth the cost as it would be a one use item, and it is sold by the pennyweight, of which one dwt. would be more than enough for a new piece and any other platinum repairs you need to have done.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you need a recommendation or rather referral to a reputable platinum smith in your area.
