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Gold Plated vs. Gold Filled vs. Gold Layered: Understanding the Differences


Question
Is it true that gold-filled and gold-layered look like gold and retain their color and shine while gold-plated products are inferir and fade easily? What is the difference between a gold-plated chain, a gold-layered chain, and a gold-filled chain? I'm confused.

Answer
Emeka, thanks for this question.

Generally it is true that gold filled items keep the gold layer longer than gold plated items. The difference is the thickness of the layer.  "Gold layered" is not a legal definition but with the use of the term "bonded" it may become part of the legal regulations on names for quality of metals in jewelry. Gold filled is a legal term and certain minimum amounts of gold layer must be present in the item. Gold plated is also a legal term requiring a certain thickness of gold plate, very thin to begin with but still meeting a legal standard for reasonable durability. Most gold plated things are NOT marked with any stamp for one reason: The gold plated layer is even thinner than the minimum legal thickness, assuring you that the gold layer will wear away the quickest of all.  

Shine is a matter of wear and scratches on the surface so all may loose shine with even light wear in some cases. The real difference is in when the gold layer wears away and the metal underneath begins to show; then there is tarnish and discoloration.  

The important question is: Which will wear away quickest and which will last the longest if each has the same exposure to wear and environment?  Thickness is the reason for the answers. Gold filled is almost always thicker than gold plated. As for something said to have a layer of gold or be bonded with gold, we do not really know how thick the layer is and cannot guess at the durability.  However, in my experience, the words are often used more for advertising than in saying much about durabilty and the items are generally no more durable than basic gold plated items.

There is a quite thick plated layer called Heavy Gold Electroplate, HGE is the stamp. There is a legal thickness minimum required for any jewelry stamped HGE.  This gold plate is fairly durable and in some cases will outlast lighter versions of gold filled. As for thicker versions of gold filled, I go for the gold filled lasting longest.  Normal gold plate will not stand up to either over time.

There is a company which used to make bangle bracelets, etc., and called the surface "overlay". This was not a gold filled as best I can tell but was a quite durable and thick gold plate. They guaranteed their items for durability.  Most items called "gold-layered" are not meeting any particular thickness standards and you really don't know what you are getting with durability unless the brand has established history of durability.

Gold plate is deposited by electroplate methods, electrically causing a layer of gold to form on the item.  Gold Filled is a true layer bonded to the surface; look at a quarter US coin from the side and see a center coppery layer and shiny whiter layers on either side for the coin faces. That is how gold filled is done, in bonded layers but not so thick as with the quarter.


Get back if you need more info.  God Bless and Peace.  Thomas.