QuestionHi There,
Do you know any Jewelers that can do invisible settings? I have six 0.35ca princess stones that I want set in a mens white gold ring. I live in Alberta and I am looking the closest capable jeweler.
Thanks,
Cody
AnswerDear Cody,
Every jeweler I know dealing in retail business would rather work on any sort of diamond setting other than invisible set. Because of lost stones and sometimes great responsibility should one stone be lost followed by several, this sort of work whether repair or from scratch manufacture is generally put in the hands of manufacturers and service shops dealing with the retail business and not the public customer. I do not know any jewelers in your area.
You see, from the beginning when invisible sets were see as a wonderfully beautiful approach to stone setting the problems associated with the style were not fully appreciated. Yes, invisible sets are often very attractive. Invisible sets are also often very prone to stone loss and in some setting styles if one stone is lost, other stones also loosen and are lost.
Regular princess cuts stones will not be suited for classic invisible set. Diamonds were grooved or cut specially on the waist (girdle) of the stone. The setting is like a tongue and groove paneling or the groove accommodates a thin strip of metal which goes into the groove on the outside gems and the metal is essentially hidden by the process. Some service shops have set stones in a newer sort of "invisible set" with non-grooved diamonds by using very small points of metal between the stones with the stones supported on a grid of metal from below.
I suggest checking out jewelers who do higher end custom work and ask for suggestions on design and setting methods. The stones may be channel set and look very good. So much depends on the design of the ring. Ask if the jeweler has resources to have the stones set into the sort of invisible set using the small points of metal as described in the previous paragraph. If so, find out who is responsible for repair and replacement over time should stones be lost.
Cody, unfortunately I have seen too many problems with invisible set jewelry to recommend going that direction. You obviously could not use the original grooved diamond method and I am not familiar enough with newer methods to recommend it. I personally am suspicious of the durability of any style of invisible setting, regardless of the real beauty and effectiveness of the style in showing the diamonds well and dramatically.
I do hope this helps. God Bless and Peace. Thomas.
