Silhouette:
* Bell-shaped skirt: This was the defining feature of the decade. Skirts were very wide and gradually grew in circumference.
* Fitted bodice: A tight, often pointed waist was considered ideal. Corsets were essential for achieving this shape, and they became more elaborate and restrictive.
* Sloping shoulders: Achieved through the cut of the bodice and often enhanced by padding.
Key Garments:
* Day Dresses:
* Bodice: Usually high-necked, with a tight, pointed waist. Could be separate or attached to the skirt.
* Sleeves: Bell-shaped or pagoda sleeves (wider at the wrist) were popular. They often featured undersleeves or engageantes made of lace or muslin.
* Skirt: Wide and long, reaching the ankles. Often layered with petticoats to achieve the desired volume.
* Evening Dresses:
* Bodice: Lower necklines, often off-the-shoulder, exposing more of the neck and upper chest.
* Sleeves: Shorter, often cap sleeves or lace trim.
* Skirt: Similar to day dresses in shape but made of finer fabrics and with more elaborate embellishments.
* Outerwear:
* Shawls: Extremely popular, especially for warmth and covering the wide skirts.
* Mantles and Cloaks: Various styles, often with hoods or capes, designed to accommodate the full skirt.
* Riding Habits: Tailored suits for horseback riding, usually in dark colors.
* Undergarments:
* Chemise: A linen or cotton underdress worn next to the skin.
* Corset: Essential for shaping the torso and creating the desired tiny waist.
* Petticoats: Multiple layers of petticoats (often starched) were used to create the bell shape of the skirt.
* Crinoline: Towards the end of the decade, the crinoline (a cage-like structure made of steel hoops) started to replace multiple petticoats. This allowed for even wider skirts without the weight.
Fabrics & Colors:
* Fabrics:
* Day Dresses: Cotton, wool, silk, and combinations of these were common.
* Evening Dresses: Silk, satin, velvet, lace, and tulle were favored for their luxurious appearance.
* Colors:
* A wide range of colors was available due to advancements in dyeing technology.
* Popular colors included: blues, greens, purples, browns, grays, and various shades of red.
* Floral prints were common, especially for day dresses.
Accessories:
* Bonnets and Hats: Essential headwear, often adorned with ribbons, flowers, and feathers.
* Gloves: Always worn, especially for formal occasions.
* Boots and Shoes: Ankle boots with laces or buttons were common for daytime. Slippers or pumps were worn for evening.
* Jewelry: Necklaces, brooches, bracelets, and earrings were popular, though generally more modest than in later periods.
* Parasols: Used to protect the skin from the sun.
* Handbags/Purses: Small bags, often called reticules, were used to carry personal items.
Hairstyles:
* Center Part: Hair was typically parted in the middle and styled in smooth waves or braids.
* Buns and Chignons: Hair was often gathered at the back of the head into a bun or chignon, sometimes with curls or braids framing the face.
* Hair Ornaments: Ribbons, combs, and flowers were used to decorate the hair, especially for evening.
Key Trends:
* Emphasis on the Waist: The tiny, cinched waist was the focal point of the silhouette.
* Modesty: High necklines and long sleeves were common, reflecting Victorian ideals of feminine virtue.
* Ornamentation: Dresses were often embellished with lace, ribbons, embroidery, and other decorative details.
* The Crinoline's Emergence: The crinoline revolutionized skirt shapes and allowed for greater volume.
In Summary:
Women's fashion in the 1850s was characterized by a very specific silhouette: a tightly corseted waist, a full, bell-shaped skirt, and a generally modest aesthetic. It was an era of elaborate understructures, beautiful fabrics, and increasing availability of colors and styles due to industrial advancements.