1. Preparation:
* Hair Texture: Slightly textured hair works best. If your hair is very slippery, consider adding some texturizing spray or mousse. Newly washed hair can be harder to braid.
* Tools:
* Brush/Comb: To detangle and smooth hair.
* Hair tie: To secure the end of the braid.
* Optional: Bobby pins to secure stray hairs. Holding spray for extra hold.
2. Starting the Braid:
* Sectioning: Take a section of hair at the top of your head, near your forehead. The size of this section determines the thickness of the braid. Divide this section into three equal strands, like you're starting a regular braid.
* First Braid Stitch: This is where the *under braiding* begins.
* Standard Braid: In a normal braid, you'd cross the right strand *over* the middle strand, then the left strand *over* the middle strand.
* Dutch Braid (Under Braid): Instead, you'll cross the right strand *under* the middle strand, then the left strand *under* the new middle strand. This is the key difference!
3. Adding Hair (the crucial part):
* Adding on the Right: Before you cross the right strand *under* the middle strand, pick up a small section of hair from the right side of your head, near the braid. Add this new section to the right strand you're about to braid. Now, cross this combined (strand + added hair) under the middle strand.
* Adding on the Left: Before you cross the left strand *under* the middle strand, pick up a small section of hair from the left side of your head, near the braid. Add this new section to the left strand you're about to braid. Now, cross this combined (strand + added hair) under the middle strand.
4. Repeating the Process:
* Continue alternating sides, adding hair to the strand *before* you bring it *under* the middle strand. Try to pick up relatively even sections of hair to keep the braid balanced.
* Angle: The angle at which you add the hair will determine the direction of the braid. If you want the braid to curve, angle the additions accordingly. A straight-back braid uses hair parallel with the starting section.
5. Finishing the Braid:
* Reaching the Nape: Once you've incorporated all the hair from the sides of your head, continue braiding the remaining hair in a regular three-strand *under braid* (Dutch braid) down to the end.
* Securing: Tie off the end of the braid with a hair tie.
* Optional: Gently pull at the edges of the braid to make it fuller and more textured (pancaking the braid). Use hairspray for extra hold.
Tips for Success:
* Practice: It takes practice to get the hang of consistently adding hair and keeping the tension even. Don't be discouraged if it doesn't look perfect at first.
* Consistent Tension: Keep the tension consistent throughout the braid. Too tight, and it will pull; too loose, and it will fall apart.
* Clean Partings: Clean, neat partings make for a cleaner, more polished-looking braid.
* Mirror, Mirror: Use a mirror to see the back of your head and make sure you're adding hair evenly. A hand mirror can be helpful.
* Start Small: Begin with a smaller section of hair to start the braid. It's easier to manage and control when you're first learning.
* Don't Overthink It: Once you understand the basic principle of adding hair *under* the middle strand, try to relax and let the braid flow.
Troubleshooting:
* Lumpy Braid: Uneven tension, inconsistent section sizes, or adding too much hair at once can cause lumps. Try to smooth out the braid as you go and adjust the tension.
* Loose Braid: Not enough tension or slippery hair can lead to a loose braid. Use a texturizing product or braid hair that's not freshly washed.
* Hair Falling Out: Secure stray hairs with bobby pins or hairspray.
* Scalp Showing: Try adding larger sections of hair, or adjust the angle at which you're picking up the hair.
In summary, the key difference between a French braid and a Dutch braid (under braid) is the direction you cross the strands: OVER for French, UNDER for Dutch. The adding-hair technique is the same for both, but the *under* braiding motion creates the raised, three-dimensional effect of the Dutch braid.