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Copper Hair Color Patchiness: Troubleshooting & Solutions


Question
Hi,

Recently stripped my hair using Clairol clear mix tones (Only had one layer of permanent color on, so this was sufficient to lift my hair to a gingery color). Colored over with Koleston Perfect 8/43. Achieved a beautiful copper all over EXCEPT in a spot (about 3 inches in length, one inch wide) on the back of my head where the color doesn't seem to want to take. I believe I overprocessed it. It's a pretty bright level 8 blonde at the moment, while the rest of my hair is a nice 7 copper.

I have two questions: First, what is your suggested treatment for overprocessed, tangly hair? I would love a suggestion for a good reconstructor, but if cutting it is neccessary... I can do that.

Second, does the hair need to be filled (for example with a dark blonde) before it will hold on to the copper color? Or is it just the damage causing this problem??

Thanks so much!

Emily

Answer
Emily,
 When there is one spot like this, different from the rest, it is usually the result of external contact with something or particular stress in that area. The area you describe suggests friction in that area from the back of your head rubbing against something regularly, like a car seat headrest or something else regularly. You need to figure out first what this is. Unfortunately, once hair is damaged like this it can't really be fixed. However, any reconstructor will help build the hair somewhat. Apply a protein reconstructor to shampooed and towel dried hair and dry into hair without brushing and disturbing as little as possible. Then rinse, towel off and apply a moisturizing conditioner. Wrap with plastic wrap or shower cap. Wring out a damp towel, heat in microwave for 20 to 30 seconds to comfortably warm and wrap over cap for 15-20 minutes. Remove cap, comb conditioner through with wide tooth comb for a minute or two while it cools and rinse. Do this often to help rebuild the hair somewhat. The product brand is not important, as most professional brands are fine. Just be sure to always follow protein reconstructing with a moisturizing conditioner, or the hair can become brittle.
 The hair in that area will indeed need to be filled, or coloured first with a non ammonia colour a level lighter to prime it to take and hold the colour better. You'll want to have this done professionally.
Best of luck to you.
Stephe (hairman)