Why Hair Turns Purple (or Blue/Gray) After Bleaching and Toning:
* The Toner's Pigment: Toners deposit pigment to neutralize unwanted tones (usually yellow or orange) in bleached hair. Purple or blue toners are used to counteract *yellow* tones. The pigment is very concentrated.
* Over-Toning: If you leave the toner on for too long, or if your hair is already very light and porous, it can absorb *too much* of the purple/blue pigment.
* Uneven Application: If the toner is applied unevenly, some areas might grab more pigment than others.
* Porous Hair: Very damaged or porous hair absorbs pigment more readily, making it prone to over-toning.
* The Specific Toner: Some toners are simply more potent than others.
* Existing Hair Color: If your hair already has underlying cool tones (from previous coloring or environmental factors), the toner might intensify those tones.
How to Prevent Purple Hair:
1. Start Light Enough (but not *too* light):
* The goal of bleaching is to get your hair to the *correct* level of pale yellow for the toner you're using.
* Avoid over-bleaching to platinum white, as this can make your hair extremely porous and susceptible to over-toning.
* If your hair is already very light yellow, you might not even need a strong purple toner. Consider a clear gloss or a very diluted toner.
2. Choose the Right Toner:
* Understand the Undertones: If your hair is more orange than yellow after bleaching, a blue-based toner might be a better choice than a purple one.
* Consider the Strength: Some toners are more pigmented than others. Read reviews and research before using a new product. Wella T18, for example, is known to be potent.
* Direct Dyes as Toner: Some people use diluted semi-permanent dyes like a purple or blue as toners. This gives you more control over the intensity. Dilute the dye with conditioner.
3. Strand Test, Strand Test, Strand Test!
* Absolutely essential! Before applying toner to your entire head, test it on a small, hidden section of your hair.
* This allows you to see how quickly your hair absorbs the pigment and how the final color will look.
* Time the strand test carefully, checking the color every few minutes.
4. Apply Toner Evenly and Carefully:
* Use a tint brush to apply the toner, ensuring that all strands are coated.
* Work quickly and methodically.
* If you have very long or thick hair, consider sectioning it for easier application.
5. Follow the Instructions Exactly:
* Read the toner's instructions carefully and follow the recommended processing time.
* Do not exceed the recommended time, even if you don't see the desired results immediately. Over-toning is more common than under-toning.
6. Dilute the Toner (if necessary):
* If you're concerned about over-toning, you can dilute the toner with developer or conditioner.
* This will reduce the intensity of the pigment and give you more control.
* Start with a small amount of toner and gradually add more until you reach the desired consistency.
7. Check the Color Frequently:
* While the toner is processing, check the color of your hair every few minutes.
* If you start to see purple or blue developing too quickly, rinse the toner out immediately.
8. Use a Gentle Shampoo and Conditioner:
* After toning, use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner specifically designed for color-treated hair.
* These products will help to prevent the color from fading and keep your hair healthy.
9. Avoid Over-Washing:
* Washing your hair too frequently can strip away the toner and cause the purple/blue tones to become more noticeable.
* Try to wash your hair only when necessary.
10. Use a Clarifying Shampoo (if needed):
* If you do end up with purple hair, a clarifying shampoo can help to remove some of the excess pigment.
* However, be careful not to overuse clarifying shampoo, as it can also dry out your hair.
* Use it sparingly, followed by a deep conditioner.
11. Vitamin C Treatment:
* Crushed vitamin C tablets mixed with a small amount of shampoo and left on the hair for 15-30 minutes can help to lift unwanted tones. This is a gentler alternative to harsh shampoos.
12. Consult a Professional:
* If you're unsure about any of the steps involved in bleaching and toning, it's always best to consult a professional hair stylist.
* They can assess your hair's condition, recommend the right products, and apply them safely and effectively.
If You *Do* Get Purple Hair:
* Don't panic! It's usually fixable.
* Wash with a clarifying shampoo: As mentioned above, this can help lift the excess pigment.
* Use a color remover: A gentle color remover can help to lift the purple/blue tones without damaging your hair too much. Follow the instructions carefully.
* Try a warm-toned shampoo: A shampoo with a slight orange or gold tint can help to neutralize the purple tones.
* Sunlight: Believe it or not, sunlight can help to fade the toner. Spend some time outdoors (with UV protection for your hair).
* Wait it out: The toner will fade over time with washing.
By taking these precautions, you can significantly reduce the risk of ending up with purple hair after bleaching and toning and achieve the beautiful, blonde color you desire!