Why Does Hair Turn Orange?
* Underlying Pigment: Hair naturally contains red and orange pigments (phaeomelanin). When you lighten your hair, you're trying to remove these pigments. Darker hair has more of these pigments, making it harder to lift the color without exposing the orange.
* Incomplete Lift: If you don't lift the hair enough (e.g., using too low a volume developer, not processing long enough), you'll expose the orange pigments without fully neutralizing them.
* Warm-Toned Dyes: Using dyes with a golden, copper, or red base can deposit orange tones, especially on already lightened hair.
* Hard Water: Minerals in hard water can deposit on the hair and cause it to grab orange tones from the dye or react with the dye to create orange tones.
* Box Dye: Box dyes are often formulated with a one-size-fits-all approach and may not properly address the underlying pigments in your specific hair color.
* Sun Exposure: Sun can fade hair dye and reveal underlying warmth.
How to Prevent Orange Hair:
1. Professional Consultation (Best Option):
* See a stylist: A professional colorist can assess your hair's starting level, undertones, and porosity. They can then formulate a custom color that will lift your hair to the desired level while neutralizing unwanted orange tones.
* Experience matters: They have the experience and knowledge to choose the right developer, toner, and dye for your hair type and desired color.
2. Home Dyeing Strategies (If you choose to DIY):
* Start with an Accurate Assessment:
* Identify your current hair level: Use a hair color level chart (1-10, 1 being black, 10 being lightest blonde) to determine your starting point.
* Understand your undertones: Is your hair naturally warm (red/orange/gold) or cool (ashy)?
* Choose the Right Dye and Developer:
* Cool-toned dyes: Opt for ash, beige, or pearl shades. These contain blue or green pigments that counteract orange. Look for keywords like "ash," "cool," "neutral," or "beige" on the dye packaging.
* Developer volume: Developer volume is the strength. A higher volume lifts more but can also cause more damage.
* 10 volume: Deposits color, adds tone, or covers grays.
* 20 volume: Lifts 1-2 levels.
* 30 volume: Lifts 2-3 levels.
* 40 volume: Lifts 3-4 levels (use with caution, can cause significant damage).
* Don't go too light too quickly: If you're going significantly lighter, do it in stages with lower developer volumes to minimize damage and control the lifting process.
* Strand Test:
* Always, always, always do a strand test. Apply the dye to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair (usually underneath) to see how the color develops. This will help you avoid unwanted surprises.
* Assess the results: Check if the strand is lifting to the desired level and if any orange tones are appearing. Adjust the processing time or developer volume accordingly.
* Use Toner:
* Toner is crucial. Toner neutralizes unwanted undertones (like orange) after lightening.
* Purple/blue toners: Purple toner cancels out yellow tones, while blue toner cancels out orange tones. Choose the right toner based on the specific undertones you're seeing.
* Toning shampoos: Purple or blue shampoos can help maintain your color and prevent brassiness between dye jobs.
* Apply toner evenly: Follow the instructions carefully and apply the toner evenly to all lightened areas.
* Processing Time:
* Don't rush it: Allow the dye or bleach to process for the recommended time. Under-processing is a major cause of orange tones.
* Check regularly: Monitor the color development every few minutes, especially during the lightening process.
* Hard Water Management:
* Clarifying shampoo: Use a clarifying shampoo regularly to remove mineral buildup.
* Shower filter: Install a shower filter to remove minerals from the water.
* Rinse with distilled water: For the final rinse, use distilled water to minimize mineral deposits.
3. Hair Care After Dyeing:
* Use color-safe shampoo and conditioner: These products are formulated to be gentle on color-treated hair and prevent fading.
* Avoid harsh sulfates: Sulfates can strip the hair of its natural oils and cause the color to fade quickly.
* Protect from the sun: UV rays can fade hair color and cause brassiness. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection.
* Limit heat styling: Excessive heat can damage the hair and cause the color to fade. Use heat protectant products and lower heat settings.
* Deep condition regularly: Dyeing can dry out the hair. Use a deep conditioner once or twice a week to keep it hydrated and healthy.
Important Considerations:
* Damaged Hair: Damaged hair is more porous and absorbs color unevenly, which can lead to patchy or brassy results. Repair damaged hair before dyeing.
* Hair History: If you've used box dyes or other harsh treatments in the past, your hair may be more difficult to lift evenly.
* Patience: Going from dark to light hair is a process that takes time and multiple sessions. Be patient and prioritize the health of your hair.
If you're unsure about any step, it's always best to consult with a professional colorist. They can provide personalized advice and help you achieve your desired color without damaging your hair.