Understanding Bleached Hair and Its Challenges
Bleaching hair:
* Removes Pigment: Bleach lifts the natural pigment from your hair, leaving it lighter. The higher the level of lift, the more damage can occur.
* Creates Porosity: Bleached hair becomes more porous, meaning it has open cuticles. This makes it absorb color quickly and unevenly, leading to patchy or muddy results.
* Weakens the Hair: Bleaching can weaken the hair's structure, making it more prone to breakage and damage.
Planning Your Color
1. Assess the Condition of Your Hair:
* Dryness: Is your hair dry and brittle?
* Elasticity: Does it stretch and return to its original length when wet, or does it break easily?
* Porosity: Does your hair absorb water or product quickly, or does it sit on top?
* Damage: Are there split ends, breakage, or a gummy texture?
If your hair is severely damaged, consider postponing coloring and focusing on repairing it first.
2. Choose the Right Color:
* Going Darker: Easier to achieve and maintain, especially if you're going several shades darker.
* Going Lighter: More challenging and requires careful consideration of your hair's current level and underlying tones. You may need to fill the hair before applying the final color (more on this below).
* Fashion Colors (Pastels, Vivids): Work best on very light, pre-toned blonde hair (level 9 or 10). These colors fade quickly.
* Toner: Neutralizes unwanted tones (e.g., yellow or orange) in bleached hair. Toners deposit pigment, they don't lift.
3. Consider Underlying Tones:
* Bleached hair often reveals underlying tones like yellow, orange, or red. These tones will affect the final color result.
* Use a color wheel to determine the opposite color that will neutralize unwanted tones:
* Yellow is neutralized by violet/purple.
* Orange is neutralized by blue.
* Red is neutralized by green.
4. Choose the Right Type of Dye:
* Demi-Permanent: Deposits color only (doesn't lift). Blends grays, adds tone, enhances color. Less damaging than permanent dyes. Good for covering slight tone differences. Lasts 6-8 weeks.
* Semi-Permanent: Deposits color only. Similar to demi-permanent but doesn't contain developer (peroxide). Lasts fewer washes (4-6). Great for experimenting with colors or refreshing tones. Doesn't cover grays well.
* Permanent: Lifts and deposits color. Provides the most significant color change and the best gray coverage. The most damaging option.
* Direct Dyes: Pre-mixed dyes (often vibrant colors) that don't require developer. Applied directly to clean, dry hair. Can be quite long-lasting, especially on porous hair.
5. Strand Test is a MUST: Always perform a strand test before applying color to your entire head. This will help you determine:
* How the color will look on your hair.
* How long to process the color.
* Whether you need to adjust the formula or processing time.
* If the color adheres to your hair well, or if it is being rejected.
Preparing Your Hair
1. Repair and Strengthen: If your hair is damaged, focus on repairing it for at least a week or two before coloring. Use:
* Protein treatments (use sparingly, as over-protein can make hair brittle)
* Deep conditioning masks
* Leave-in conditioners
2. Balance Porosity: Porous hair absorbs color unevenly. To balance porosity:
* Fill the Hair: If you're going significantly darker (especially after bleaching very light), you might need to "fill" the hair with a color close to your natural underlying tones (e.g., a warm red-gold if you naturally have warm tones). This helps the final color adhere evenly and prevents it from looking muddy. The color wheel can help determine the appropriate fill color.
* Use a Porosity Equalizer: These products help create a more even surface for color absorption. Apply before coloring.
3. Cleanse and Clarify:
* Wash your hair 24-48 hours before coloring with a clarifying shampoo to remove buildup. Don't use conditioner. Clean hair allows the color to penetrate better.
4. Protect Your Skin:
* Apply petroleum jelly or a barrier cream along your hairline and ears to prevent staining.
Coloring Process
1. Gather Your Supplies:
* Hair color
* Developer (if required)
* Mixing bowl and applicator brush
* Gloves
* Old towel or cape
* Hair clips
* Timer
2. Mix the Color: Follow the instructions on the dye package carefully.
3. Apply the Color:
* Section Your Hair: Divide your hair into four sections (or more, depending on the thickness).
* Apply to Roots First (if applicable): If you're covering roots or going darker, apply the color to the roots first, as they take longer to process.
* Apply to the Rest of Your Hair: Work the color through the rest of your hair, ensuring even coverage.
* Be Quick: Work efficiently to apply the color evenly before it starts to process unevenly.
4. Process the Color: Follow the processing time recommended on the dye package. Check a strand every few minutes towards the end to see if the color is what you are looking for.
5. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse your hair with cool water until the water runs clear.
6. Condition: Apply a deep conditioner or color-safe conditioner to help seal the cuticle and lock in moisture.
Aftercare
1. Use Color-Safe Shampoo and Conditioner: These products are formulated to be gentle on colored hair and prevent fading.
2. Avoid Heat Styling: Heat can damage colored hair and cause it to fade faster. Use heat protectant if you must use heat styling tools.
3. Limit Washing: Wash your hair less frequently to preserve the color.
4. Protect from the Sun: UV rays can fade hair color. Use a hair product with UV protection or wear a hat when spending time outdoors.
5. Regular Deep Conditioning: Keep your hair moisturized with regular deep conditioning treatments.
Important Considerations
* Professional Help: If you're unsure about coloring your hair at home, especially after bleaching, consider consulting a professional colorist. They can assess your hair's condition and help you choose the right color and technique.
* Color Correction: If you get an undesirable result, don't panic. A professional colorist can help correct the color and minimize damage.
* Patch Test: Perform a patch test 48 hours before coloring to check for allergies.
By understanding the challenges of coloring bleached hair and following these steps carefully, you can achieve beautiful and healthy-looking color. Good luck!