Understanding the Goal and Toner Basics
* Why are you lightening the toner? Is the toner too dark or too ashy? Knowing why you want it lighter will help guide your approach.
* Toner purpose: Toner doesn't lift your hair colour, it changes the tone. It's meant to neutralize unwanted brassiness (yellow, orange) or add a desired hue (ashy, cool, beige).
* Developer: Toners need a developer to activate. Most often uses a 10 volume developer. Using a higher developer will not make the hair lighter, it will just cause more damage.
Methods to Lighten Toner
Here are the most common and effective methods, along with their pros and cons:
1. Diluting the Toner with Conditioner
* How it works: This is the gentlest and most controllable method. You mix your toner with a white, silicone-free conditioner.
* How to do it:
* In a non-metallic bowl, mix your toner with the appropriate amount of developer (usually 10 volume). Follow the instructions on the toner packaging.
* Add white conditioner to the mixture. Start with equal parts toner mix and conditioner.
* Mix thoroughly.
* Strand test: Apply a small amount to a hidden strand of hair to see how it develops. Adjust the ratio of conditioner if needed (more conditioner = lighter toner).
* Pros:
* Gentle, less likely to over-tone.
* More control over the final color.
* Adds moisture to your hair.
* Cons:
* May require experimenting to get the perfect dilution.
* The color may fade faster.
2. Reducing Processing Time
* How it works: The longer you leave the toner on, the more pigment is deposited.
* How to do it:
* Follow the toner's instructions for mixing.
* Apply to your hair.
* Check the color development frequently (every few minutes).
* Rinse as soon as you achieve your desired tone. Don't wait the full processing time recommended on the packaging.
* Pros:
* Simple and straightforward.
* Can prevent over-toning.
* Cons:
* Requires careful monitoring.
* May not be suitable if you need significant toning.
3. Washing with Clarifying Shampoo Immediately After Toning
* How it works: A clarifying shampoo can help to lift some of the toner pigment immediately after application.
* How to do it:
* Toner your hair as usual.
* Immediately after rinsing out the toner, wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo.
* Follow with a moisturizing conditioner.
* Pros:
* Easy to do.
* Can remove excess toner.
* Cons:
* Clarifying shampoos can be drying.
* May not lighten the toner dramatically.
Important Considerations and Warnings
* Strand Test: ALWAYS do a strand test before applying the toner to your entire head. This is crucial to see how the toner will react with your hair and to avoid unwanted results.
* Developer Volume: Stick to the developer volume recommended by the toner manufacturer. Using a higher volume developer will not lighten the toner itself, but it can damage your hair and lead to unpredictable results. Toners use a low volume developer (10 is typical).
* Hair Condition: Assess the condition of your hair. If your hair is damaged, dry, or brittle, it's more porous and will absorb toner more quickly. Diluting the toner is especially important in this case.
* Porosity: Porous hair absorbs more product. Use less toner and dilute it more.
* Color Theory: Understand basic color theory. If your hair is too ashy, you might need to add a warmer toner. If it's too yellow, you need a cooler toner.
* Professional Help: If you're unsure or uncomfortable, consult a professional hairstylist. They can assess your hair and recommend the best approach for your specific situation. It's always better to be safe than sorry, especially when dealing with chemicals.
* Avoid Bleach/Lightener: Do not use bleach or hair lightener to try to lighten the toner. This can cause significant damage to your hair and is generally not recommended. Bleach lifts the natural pigment of the hair, toner deposits a tone onto existing pigment.
* Timing: Be vigilant about timing. Toner can deposit quickly, so keep a close eye on the color development during the processing time.
Steps for Diluting Toner
1. Gather supplies: Toner, developer, white conditioner (silicone and sulfate free), non-metallic bowl, tint brush, gloves, towel, timer.
2. Mix toner and developer: Mix the toner and developer according to the toner's instructions.
3. Add conditioner: Add conditioner in small increments, mixing well after each addition. Start with a 1:1 ratio (toner mix to conditioner).
4. Strand test: Apply to a strand. Process for the recommended time of your toner
5. Evaluate: If strand test is still too dark, add more conditioner to the mix.
6. Apply to hair: Apply the diluted toner to your hair, focusing on the areas that need toning.
7. Monitor and rinse: Check the color development frequently. Rinse when you reach your desired tone.
8. Condition: Use a moisturizing conditioner after rinsing.
By following these steps and being cautious, you can lighten your toner and achieve your desired hair color. Good luck!