In the latest fashions shows all the models wore large necklaces
and wrists-full of bracelets made of wood or shells and had
their hair done in loose, gentle upsweeps. The black-and-white
Beatnik style is back, aimed at the 16-25 age group, severe and
pared down, a complete about-turn…gone is casual,
throw-it-all-together, ethnic school of style, with last
season’s Bohemian look making but a brief showing. We saw
sequined dresses, halters and shrugs in purple, green and gold;
swimwear followed the metallic theme: women wore tiny silver and
gold bikinis, while men wore shorts or swimsuits in colorful
prints. Last season’s Bohemian look made a brief showing.
Many of the formal dresses were updated versions of more
classic styles. A simple off-white knee-length strapless gown
was accented with a skirt of tulle ruffles around the waist. A
long purple evening gown was slit up the front with a cloud of
feathers beginning at the knee.
Steer clear of flat black -
the key element is the combination of black and white, such as a
crisp, white shirt with a pair of well-cut black trousers, and
look for rich fabrics such as satin, silk and velvet; black and
white-striped mohair sweater-dresses, worn over tights or very
fitted jeans, worn with black ballet slippers, patent slippers
or with knee-high black boots; black wool cropped jackets and
pea coats; Beatnik-style black caps; black eyeliner and mascara;
sunglasses and straight hair.
The hourglass silhouette is
already a key look for this winter but if you don’t have a tiny,
well-toned frame, choose less fitted silhouettes, and add
narrow, leather belts, retro-style shoes, vintage handbags and
opulent fur, a striped Pompom scarf. Pompom decoration is a
designer look and very easy to make yourself. Back in style is
the Sixties-inspired wool shift, with a Chanel touch and in
solid colors such as a white shirt and oversized black blazer,
and rather than a revival of androgyny it is simply a question
of comfort and ease; black mini-skirt with over-the-knee boots;
or a striped top or sweater [with a pair of skinny black pants.
Dresses have been the featured item in the latest fashion
shows; 'The Wrap' dress is making a comeback, and is not in a
boudoir-inspired style, but a dress with a waist, a neckline, a
skirt and - most importantly - sleeves. The new autumn
collections are full of dresses with sleeves of every shape and
size - three-quarter length, cuffed, long and tight, full and
belled, raglan and puffed, many in a print pattern such as
paisley print, on a long-sleeved dress. Prints in shades of
green, orange, pink and purple dominated the beginning of the
show. Shorts and skirts came in bright patterns that echoed back
to the 1950s and 1960s. Modern technology, with improvements in
jersey fabrics and stretch, makes a dress really comfortable to
wear. Many younger women want an all-in-one solution for work
and business travel, rather than a skirt and top or a suit.
Fall/Winter 05/06 has accents of color combined with regal
fabrics. Black is not minimalist black as in the 1990s; rich
deep plush velvet, black satin, black lace and black just
accented with white or red is the look for 2005. Black silk,
black gauze, Persian lamb, black taffeta, penne velvet black
denim, black cashmere, black jet, corduroy, black suede and
Shear ling add touches of sophistication and glamour to new
trends. Main colors are deep rich violet purples, wine reds,
burnt ginger tones, moss greens, mustard, and teal. The basic
solid black and white can be very sharp and smart, plus grays
and oyster shell tones.
British country style tweeds have
been out in force, but this year tweed is less textured. It
looks more like Harris Tweed, flat plaids or old familiar checks
such as black and white hound's tooth checks. This is a look
that can continue into night with sequins used to create the
contrast; boldly vibrant colored checks, colorful tartans and
tweeds are all used in coats, dresses and skirts that are
loose-fitting with flowing folds of fabric, or with a Roman
touch with lines of gold appliqué. Ironically, these heritage
fabrics and shapes should be worn in a quirky way, jumbled up,
mixing Argyle knits with tartans, plaids and stripes. Or you
could borrow from the men, Ralph Lauren-style, and wear slouchy
tweed trousers with brogues and oversized knits; and boucle
tweed suits in the 50s style.
Intarsia in knitwear is back
again, such as Fair Isle, ikat, bold abstract and paisley
arrangements. Long cardigan jackets cardigan and asymmetric
cardigan wraps and coats often have fur collars or a narrow fur
edge; Aran knits, not usually in the traditional cream but in
richer deep shades of creams, teal and rust feature in many
collections.
Luxurious rich fabrics and antique brocade
fabrics, often interpreted with Ombre dyed materials like
velvets that move through related colors such as burnt orange
merging with reds through to claret in Ombre dyed velvet. Such
velvet is then over printed in toning colors or textured with
embroidery. Velvet can also have texture and appliqué
and is generally gorgeous this winter with an antique vintage
feel. Metallic luster and rich satins and the plushest of
velvets bring a new opulence to winter. In addition to rich
plush velvet there will be penne velvet, corduroy, suede, Shear
ling, leather reptilian skins, boiled wool, suiting. Designer
shoes frequently have lace and beading and if they are not
velvet, they may just as easily be made of suede another luxury
material.
The best styles to look for are wide-leg cuffed
trousers, short, swingy jackets and slim skirts, totes and
bucket bags, flat lace-up brogues, flora and fauna prints. The
'in' colors are black and white, beige, orange, gorgeous greens
and often have crochet motifs added - also a lot of purple tones
in tartan skirts, fur coats.
Just remember that black in
2005 is no longer the only look to wear. The fabrics in rich
deep berry and gem jewel colours may do far more for your
coloring than black ever might. Berry colors and purples will be
a wonderful choice instead of black or as an accent color.
Cubist paint techniques as prints will lead us into Spring 2006
and stencil print effects will be popular.
Leave behind
gypsy skirts, kaftans, tribal jewellery, military jackets,
waistcoats, drainpipes, crocheted shrugs and warrior belts
[finally!].