As a makeup novice, it wasn’t until I learned how to apply eyeshadow to hooded eyes that I finally started seeing the results I was looking for. Unfortunately, I had to learn the hard way that not every tutorial on your FYP will give you the same result – dependent on your eye shape – and eyeshadow for hooded eyes can come with some unique considerations.
The term hooded eyes refers to a very common eye shape in which a fold of skin or soft tissue below the brow bone mostly or completely covers the upper eyelid when the eyes are open. Because of this, eyeshadow applied directly to the eyelid may seem to disappear, and pigmented looks that extend beyond the crease into the brow bone can appear fragmented.
Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion
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Nars Pro-Prime Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base
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Mac 217 Synthetic Blending Brush
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9 best eyeshadow palettes for 2025, tested & reviewed
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By Georgia Lockstone
“I have hooded eyes, and eyeshadow – and really making it show up on the lid – has always been a challenge,” says professional makeup artist Kirin Bhatty. Product creasing within the eye’s natural fold can also be tricky, says celebrity makeup artist Christian Briceno. But don’t worry, with the right techniques you can create eyeshadow looks that not only work with your lids, but make your eyes – and your whole makeup – pop.
From bold swipes of colour to soft shimmering glam, keep reading to find out our experts’ best tips for how to apply eyeshadow to hooded eyes.
When it comes to priming your lids for eyeshadow, there are two distinct camps: Those who are pro-primer and those who forgo it. If you’ve got hooded eyes, you’ll probably find yourself needing primer as a precaution to stop your eyeshadow from smudging.
“A smooth base is everything,” Christian agrees. “I always start with an eyeshadow primer to control oil and give the eyeshadow something to grab onto.” He suggests Urban Decay Primer Potion or Nars Smudgeproof Eyeshadow Base, and notes that if the client’s lids are especially oily, he’ll set the primer with a touch of translucent powder before adding shadow. “That little step makes blending easier and keeps everything locked down,” he says.
Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion
Nars Pro-Prime Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base
If you want to maximise your eyeshadow look on hooded lids, experts recommend investing in a fluffy, tapered brush. “This tool allows you to exaggerate your lid crease without creating any harsh lines, as the brush is very airy and light,” Kirin says.
Christian recommends using the MAC 217S Blending Brush to pat the product on first, then softly blend out the edges – swiping the product back and forth can muddy the appearance and decrease the product’s integrity on the skin. “With hooded eyes, I’ll cheat the crease by going slightly higher so the colour still shows when eyes are open,” he says. To create this more lifted look, I’ll delicately sweep the colour so it diffuses above the lid and is visible whether your eyes are open or closed. The best way to achieve this is by looking straight ahead in the mirror when applying your eyeshadow, don’t be tempted to look down into your mirror in this instance.
Another helpful tip comes from makeup artist and head of artist relations at Virtual Cosmetics, Jack Oliver. “You can naturally fake a ‘crease’ if you need using a neutral flat matte eyeshadow,” they say. “Gently use back and forth motions in the space you’d like to lift the eye, then continue with your shadow colours to achieve your desired look.”
Mac 217 Synthetic Blending Brush
Making your eyeshadow last is one of the biggest obstacles for people with hooded eyes as the constant friction and (typically) more oily skin tends to lead to it slowly rubbing away as the day progresses – leaving you with a sweaty, smudged mess by lunchtime.
Christian emphasises that the longevity of shadow on hooded lids depends on the care you take in applying it. “It’s about layering thin, even amounts of product creams first, then setting them with powders in the same tone so they reinforce each other.”
Kirin also highlights the importance of skin prep and product application, she also recommends finishing with a mist of an ultrafine setting spray, like the Dior Forever Perfect Fix Face Mist. “The goal is grip without weight,” Christian says. While fine mists are great for giving your skin a glowy finish, I’ve found more heavyweight setting sprays are best for keeping my eyeshadow in place with hooded eyes – One/Size On ‘Til Dawn Mattifying Waterproof Setting Spray and Collection Ultra Hold 3-Second Setting Spray are some of my go-to faves that I’ve tried and tested in the height of summer.
Dior Forever Perfect Fix Face Mist
Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Setting Spray
If you’ve been following the tips shared by the makeup artist experts, by now you should be happy with the eyeshadow look you’ve created. If not, don’t worry, there are some common mistakes that people make that can impact the final look. “The main mistake for hooded eyes is pulling the skin around the eyes or trying to lift them while applying eyeshadow,” says Jack. “When you let go everything drops, so use your shadows and liners to lift the eye over the hooded space.”
In many cases, Kirin says, “creating the illusion of more eyelid space is key.” She starts by applying deeper shadows along the lash line, then blending upward to create a gradient that extends beyond the natural crease. “Neutral to deep gradients always photograph beautifully on hooded eyes,” Christian says. And according to him, using matte shades in and above the natural lid crease gives instant definition. For everyday eyeshadow looks that catch light and crease minimally, try Ilia The Necessary Eyeshadow Palette.
Ilia The Necessary Eyeshadow Palette
For softer, more ethereal glam, a hint of sparkle also works beautifully with hooded eyes. To maximise these products, Christian recommends keeping shimmer “only on the movable lid or inner corner of the eye, so it highlights without overwhelming.” When applying any metallic product, Kirin uses her finger to press on the product to enhance control and limit transfer.
Some of my personal faves include Half Magic Beauty Glitterpuck – which works like a dream on hooded eyes as it doesn’t flake or crease – and Laura Mercier Caviar Stick Eye Shadow Shimmer. Both can be applied directly to your lids, or can follow a layer of Nyx Professional Makeup Glitter Primer if you want to dance the night away without any worries.
Urban Decay Naked3 Mini Eyeshadow Palette
MAC Dazzleshadow Eyeshadow Stick
If bold eyeshadow is your thing, you can have a lot of fun experimenting with different shapes on hooded eyes. To exaggerate the eyes, Christian recommends trying elongated or lifted eyeshadow, a soft wing of shadow, or a smoky lower lash line. Focusing on the lower lid – whether that means defining the waterline with a fine pencil brush or brushing a subtler shade under the lashes – can add drama without relying fully on the upper lid.
Violette_FR Yeux Paint Liquid Eyeshadow – Dieu Blue
Patrick Ta Major Dimension III Matte Eyeshadow Palette
Despite what you might think, no eyeshadow look is off-limits for hooded eyes. With a little patience and these expert-backed products and techniques – and hopefully some inspiration to try something new – your eyeshadow game is set to peak just in time for smoky season. You’re welcome!
A version of this article was originally published on Glamour US.